Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is the water temp sensor the same as the thermostat? Whats the sensor (presumably) in the bottom of the radiator? (mine has wires chopped off).

Is engine temp measured from the thermostat (its the one in the housing @ coolant return to radiator, ie where top hose connects to engine?)

Tomorrow the silviline should be back on the road after a month on the sidelines getting the radiator replaced.

Another question, is it aluminimum or copper (or neither) radiators that are most susceptible to "electrolysis" that ive heard about that can wreck radiators with loose currents?

Thanks in advance.

Peter

Where the top radiator hose connects on to the engine, there are 2 plugs - a single wire (temp gauge in the instrument panel) and a 2-wire (temp sensor for the ECU).

The thermostat is actually where the bottom radiator hose joins to the engine. The connector in the bottom of the radiator is a thermo switch for the A/C fan, which normally sits out front of the A/C radiator.

so thats 3 different sensors, 2 on top hose for dash temp and to ecu, and one on bottom hose, thermostat, so what is the purpose of the thermostat if the dash and ecu are taken care of by the top two?

and where does that sensor in the radiator go? also where do you typically get the water temp from when hooking up a water temp gauge?

The thermostat is not a sensor, it is simply a device that controls water flow depending on the temperature of the water.

The thermo fan relay in the bottom tank of the radiator goes to a relay in the bank beside the RH strut tower.

For a water temp gauge (presumably after-market) you need to get a sensor that is compatible with the gauge. You will have to create a place to mount it, but generally near the top radiator hose is ideal (near where Mr Nissan put his sensors).

so you typically wont/cant use an existing sensor to get water temp? (im not sure where the thread where mr nissan put his sensor, i cant even find a user called mr nissan here)

thanks

Umm if you use a temp gauge like autometer that reads the temp from the water itself then all you need to do is T it up off a heater hose running allong the firewall.

But electrnic ones i dont know.I would like to know where to hook a sensor up if you were to run a thermo fan for the radiator though.

Im curious do thremo fans come with an inbuilt temp activation switch?Or do you need to make a relay up yourself?:D

Umm if you use a temp gauge like autometer that reads the temp from the water itself then all you need to do is T it up off a heater hose running allong the firewall.

thanks - didnt think itd be as simple as that.

I would like to know where to hook a sensor up if you were to run a thermo fan for the radiator though.

Im curious do thremo fans come with an inbuilt temp activation switch?Or do you need to make a relay up yourself? :D

isnt there a sensor just for this in the bottom of radiator, the drain plug? mine has had its wires cutoff...isnt the stock air con thermo fan controller by this? (as my car is a conversion i cant check)

normally when u buy a thermo fan u have to buy a switch and setup relay seperately, if the car didnt already have this done from factory.

Yeah mine doesnt have it but it does have the plug i suppose a temp sensor would be easy enough to source to fit and then just set up a relay to suit.

I gave autobarn a call today and they said that a thermo fan does not come with the relay.It has to be bought separate,it's temp adjustable and costs $90 and i think the fans are davies craig from $120.

are there any downsides of having the fans permanently on, aside from longer warm up times?

btw check ebay out, should be able to get a thermo fan for less than that, and maybe ask whoever sells them about thermo switches, cause 90 seems a tad much also

Can I suggest that you stick with the standfard viscous clutch assembly that Nissan put on the engine. Unless you want to spend hours investigating air-flows and the like to ensure the radiator still cools the water.

I tried it a while ago, and I found that the engine would overheat on a slight incline at 110kph on a coolish (low 20s) day.

It's not worth the couple of kw gain to have your engine expire from overheating.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
    • Hey guys,  Way back when (about 15yrs plus), I picked up a beautiful set of Tein 'Super Racing Spec Circuit Master RE' coilovers from Russman. I have legit never fitted them to my car, as it was garaged indefinitely while i bought a house Yada Yada. They look brand new! Anyway its time to pick up where I left off, and have started doing some khanacross and am booked in for a hill climb next month. The car has some hard af Nismo shocks in ATM, which has me wanting to upgrade again, and now I am left wondering if it's worth having these teins rebuilt? I think they where an ok shock back then, but how do they compare to what's on the market now?  Shockworks/mca are 2800+, and I am sure they are great. But if I can have these rebuilt and be better than, say, a set of bc's for around the cost of bc's, I would be happy with the performance v cost trade off.  If they are considered outdated and rubbish these days, so be it, I'll put them on the shelf and be happy to look at the pretty green colour while I save for the SW/MCA option. Grateful for your thoughts on the matter, and suggestions on who could do the rebuild if it's a worthwhile pursuit.  cheers, Rowdy. 
    • I can't speak for the US, but for Canada as I mentioned above, all fuel gases contain ethanol. We have regulations for E5/E10/E15. Each province handles it differently but basically any fuel gases sold must be E10 and slowly increasing to E15 by a certain year. 
×
×
  • Create New...