Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Edit: Hang on a minute isn't your mrs name Melissa?

And it just so happens a "Melissa" served you...2+2=BS

Mates rates / Trade prices etc don't count - UNLESS you are prepared to get the item for the rest of us at the same cost!

Otherwise you can't go around saying they cost $12, hopefully you understand that otherwise I can feel a keystroke-warrior-session coming on :confused:

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

LOL, you actually went to the trouble of scanning a receipt :D

It must be cheaper for Z200 because the Z202 - which is the one I have is MUCH larger and nobody has it for less than $20 - NOBODY!

still LOL :)

See attached photo

My misses works at the comm bank and yes her name is melissa also, but no connection to who ever the chick i bought the parts from in narre warren. I can go take a pic of the melissa chick that works there if ya like :)

PS i had the receipt laying around on my table so i took a photo of it. The Z202 is just bigger but doesent really do anything different!!

I can go take a pic of the melissa chick that works there if ya like :D
LOL, only if she is HOT!

ok - well it was worth a try :cheers:

Maybe I will grab a z200 - problem is their usually out of stock at A'barn, Eastcoast & Kmart!

The reason I used a Bigger fuel filter is that I have heard people say to put in th biggest filter you can fit as this will either A. Last Longer or B. Flow Better or C. Both!

End off-topic :)

There are special socket bits that are made for them. I got one in my socket set. When you say buy one that fits a vl, i take it you talking about socket bits, coz it was my impression that all spark plugs are the same size. So as long as you have a socket bit that will fit a spark plug then you should be right to go. Did that help any????????????

oi big bhoy hook us up with the location of your fuchs dealer...

isn't there a fuchs employee on this forum? can he hook me up :)

I need to change oil, oil filter, fuel filter and sparkies.

Also I was told that Skylines came stock with 0.8mm gap sparks. I know my HKS Idium ones were anyways. I've since gone to copper which I have a sneaking suspicion are 1mm because they keep fouling.

ok, well the big secrect is Waverley Auto parts. its at 7a Aristoc rd Glen waverley 9560- 3400 . They sell all fuchs stuff, as well as exeedy clutch's etc etc. They can get anything you need really and possibly drop it off to you. Give them a call and see what they can do for you. I know a few of the people that work there and have always got the best prices on everything for me.

oi big bhoy hook us up with the location of your fuchs dealer...

isn't there a fuchs employee on this forum? can he hook me up :D

I need to change oil, oil filter, fuel filter and sparkies.

Also I was told that Skylines came stock with 0.8mm gap sparks. I know my HKS Idium ones were anyways. I've since gone to copper which I have a sneaking suspicion are 1mm because they keep fouling.

don't you have a GTS with a 2.0L NA?

io don't think gap is going to be an issue if that is the case...

There are special socket bits that are made for them. I got one in my socket set. When you say buy one that fits a vl, i take it you talking about socket bits, coz it was my impression that all spark plugs are the same size. So as long as you have a socket bit that will fit a spark plug then you should be right to go. Did that help any????????????

yeah kinda....i was talkin about those long yellow sparkie wrench things that you buy from autobahn with the funny T at the end that already has a socket on it. but it looks like i can use an ordinary wrench right?? just have to make sure the socket fits the hole yeah??

You can either get one of those yellow things, or just get a socket that fits on a normal wrench thing. They look like normal sockets but are a bit longer and have a rubber insert for gripping the spark plug.

Oh and they come in different sizes, skylines use 16mm plugs so get one that is 16mm or else its a pain in the arse putting the car back together to drive to the shops to get the right one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...