Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I run mine on about 10-11psi MAX and I am quite happy with the performance of the car at that boost level... if I want more power then I will probably just go for a larger turbo and sell on my still healthy R33 turbo, and know I can get that much more power reliably :D

I run mine on about 10-11psi MAX and I am quite happy with the performance of the car at that boost level...  if I want more power then I will probably just go for a larger turbo and sell on my still healthy R33 turbo, and know I can get that much more power reliably :D

What type of larger turbo would you head towards. I am thinking a HKS GT2835R would be the ideal setep as it won't be a lag monster and will provide a good 1.2Bar of boost all the way from 3000-7000rpm from what I can work out.

I can see how you could have that opinion, but the problem as I see it is you have a 14 psi car that you are afraid to use for more than "the odd burst".   You might as well not bother, you can't really use it.  I would much rather drive along at 10 psi and know I can safely use it any time I like, for as long as I want.  I would find it frustrating, as over any length of time or distance at 14 psi it would be ultimatley slower than a car running 10 psi all the time.

But hey, whatever floats your boat :D

lol... I'm not affraid to use it at all. My car has actually been to the track (well the drags) a few times, unlike most of the other daily driven cars around the place. Its just a little hard to do more than the odd burst in every day traffic 5 days a week. How often does your car see full boost getting from A to B? Your opinion seems to suggest that modifying a daily driver at all is a waste of time.

Anyway point taken. Over 10psi you take a risk. I spose the real rule is there is no rule.

What type of larger turbo would you head towards. I am thinking a HKS GT2835R would be the ideal setep as it won't be a lag monster and will provide a good 1.2Bar of boost all the way from 3000-7000rpm from what I can work out.

Thats pretty much what I aspire to getting, I haven't had the pleasure of experiencing one myself - but they sound good.

Thats pretty much what I aspire to getting, I haven't had the pleasure of experiencing one myself - but they sound good.

Yeah I am trying to find one that is in each good condition or well great condition. They are pretty hard to get used, but I can't afford to fork out over $3k just for a new HKS GT2835R, I am thinking maybe $2000 max.

The HKS GT2835R has a good wrap to every mechanic I speak to and obviously to the drivers that have em :)

just curious would there be any real difference between boosting your r33 to 11psi and tune it when compared to 10psi and tune it? other mods are full exhaust, filter, fmic, boost ccontroller.

my car is about to go in for it to be tuned and am wondering is there any great difference between 10 and 11psi, or would both get the basically the same power give or take a couple kw...

just curious would there be any real difference between boosting your r33 to 11psi and tune it when compared to 10psi and tune it? other mods are full exhaust, filter, fmic, boost ccontroller.

my car is about to go in for it to be tuned and am wondering is there any great difference between 10 and 11psi, or would both get the basically the same power give or take a couple kw...

I found that there was no significant difference excetp for a few kw.. nothing much either.. and that was between 10-12psi

yeh just as i was thinkin, thanks mate...

so i suppose by putting it on 10psi and giving it a good tune then it would be just as good if not better than having it on 11-12psi...

sydneykid want to confirm this for me and make up my mind on keeping it at 10psi on stock turbo and ecu

lol timbar i guess it depends on what time you are going to work :D on this topic of boost though i am intending on getting a EBC when i get my full 3" straight through exhaust + K+N panel filter but not intending on getting a FMIC 10psi should be fine i would assume any more might be pushing it in the warmer weather i guess... sound about right ???

You dont really get a huge increase in peak power from 10-13psi, but the mid range torque is a huge difference.

Yep, the turbo is not big enough to supply sufficient airflow to hold 13 psi at high rpm. So you get a good result up to around 5,750 rpm and then it drops off in airflow. Also you get heated inlet air due to the turbo operating outside its efficiency range, which robs even more power.

Plus you are rolling the dice on turbo life, it really is a no win scenario :D

Yep, the turbo is not big enough to supply sufficient airflow to hold 13 psi at high rpm.  So you get a good result up to around 5,750 rpm and then it drops off in airflow.  Also you get heated inlet air due to the turbo operating outside its efficiency range, which robs even more power.

Plus you are rolling the dice on turbo life, it really is a no win scenario :D

Your right, the boost drop off is quite significant. My peak boost is at 4500rpm then she just falls away. But what i was trying to say is, overlap the torque graphs between high and low boost, and you will find midrange is substantially stronger.

You dont really get a huge increase in peak power from 10-13psi, but the mid range torque is a huge difference.

Haha - while that is being mentioned, I have discovered that 10psi -> 11psi is the threshold where my car moves from being able to go into second (I dont flat shift) and get the rear wheels scuffing but still accelerate hard, and being able to go into second and start a fairly impressive second gear burnout :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...