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Hey guys,

My r33 gtst is pretty much stock. I am just after a quick bang for buck cheap mod. I'm just after a single stage boost controller. I used to have a s13 and had a turbosmart dual stage on that. It sucked - it spiked so high. I know this is a problem with this type of controller. I have heard of controllers only spiking 1-2 psi. Does anyone know what these are? What they cost and where to get them?

Cheers for any help lads!

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I have the single stage T-piece Turbosmart boost controller, the one you adjust under the bonnet.

Had it dyno tuned a few months ago and did not fluctuate more than 1psi. Got the print out at home. Really happy with it !

Thanks for the reply. Does anyone else have a view on what is a good single stage controller? The controller i had on my old car (s13 silvia) was also a turbosmart, it was a dual stage and i found that that would spike about 3-4 psi. Not very satisfactory. Would the single stage hold better boost?

I've played aound with SH!T LOADS of bleeds valves, flow control valves and crap lik thatm and best of the pneumatic type was the one in this article.

BUT, the best mod you could do for boost is to get another wastegate actuator. I bought a wastegate actuator from an R32 for $50. The R32 wastegate actuator has a 10psi spring, and holds 10psi from 3000 - 3500 rpm all the way to redline!

If I wanted 12psi now... I just need to bleed off 2psi raher than 7psi, and it would not spike as much...

If you want to do it properly, find yourself an R32 wastegate actuator, or buy an adjustable one. Do a search on this, It's been covered plenty.

Zahos

Hmm my bleed valve holds 17Psi, tell me what u can tell from this dynochart.

I also would like to know of a good boost controller because i simply cannot spare enough cash for a AVC-R or somthing like that

Thx

Oh man, i wish i had that power :D

Still stuck around the 160's, waiting to get an intercooler installed b4 i wack in the Power FC that's collecting dust under my bed....what a waste...hehe

But, it will get there eventually

Thanks for the help guys. Zahos, if i were to buy and fit the wastegate actuator from the r32, would i need to do anything else? Or would it automatically run at 10psi? I'm a little unsure on what you mean by "bleeding"? What you are then saying is that you can fit a single stage controller and up the boost only a little or a lot. Is that right?

Thanks again!

It would run 10psi al the time...

if you then used a single stage to bleed a few psi off, there would be less spiking..

R33 actuator has 5psi spring

R32 has 10 psi spring

a bleed valve has to bleed more off with R33 actuator to acheive same result...

i just leave the R32 actuator and i dun bleed anything off. 10psi is plenty for me, as he car is a daily driver....

I think i got ya...

Also, with the r33, if it has a 5psi sring in it, how is it that it runs at up to 7. Stock, doesn't it run at 5psi up to 5000rpm and then 7psi to redline? This doesn't quite make sense to me. Wouldn't this mean that the spring is a 7psi spring?

Anyway, thanks for the help. I think i might go ahead and go with the r32 actuator. Is it a difficult job to change over?

Cheers

Ok cool... So does that mean that if you left the factory fitted boost controller attached and changed the wastegate over to the r32 one, it would mean it would boost up to 12psi on high? Presumably it would be recommended leaving this controller disconnected, as 12 would be too high for a stock 33?

No you cant the factory controller would think that it is already at 10psi as it has to monitor boost pressure, so wont even atempt to work,.

Im going to use a Basic bleed valve with a solinoid valve plumbed into the bleed off pipe, and a basic adjustable pressure switch on the boost side so as soon asit reaches slightly over what i want it will close the bleed valve off untill it dropps or holds were i want it, the theory is good ad i belive due to the type of pressure switch i have it should work fine.

Nathan

Ok cool... So does that mean that if you left the factory fitted boost controller attached and changed the wastegate over to the r32 one, it would mean it would boost up to 12psi on high? Presumably it would be recommended leaving this controller disconnected, as 12 would be too high for a stock 33?

It might bleed more than 2psi, as at 10psi there is more flow...

I don't think the R33 monitors boost and shuts/opens the solenoid accordingly, otherwise, people that have done the factory solenoid mod, would be getting spikes well above 7psi.

just put the actuator on (R32), then disconnect the plug on he boost solenoid, and you'll be fine...

I spose you would disconnect this by cutting the two wires (white and black) from the boost solenoid?

Changing the actuator is a great idea though. I think i will do this. Anyone else have any experience with this?

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