Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys im gonna be running down the 1.4 at WSID this wednesday.

Any tips?..

Never driven a full drift setip car on a 1.4 mile run b4. So dont know what to expect. Any guesses on my time?.

Specs:

Weight: 1400 kg inc my skinny azzz

Power: 170 rwkw approxx

Wheels: 17x9 and 17x8.5 (some german brand on em atm)

Im hoping for a 14 sec pass.. Low 14's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50949-cefiro-14-mile-time/
Share on other sites

I got a 14.56 @ 98mph, or there abouts. That was with the old tyres that were on the car from japan, and wheel spin city. But my advice would be let the tyre pressure down. Another mate gained about 0.5sec from pretty much tyre pressure alone.

Even if you dont get a good run, look at the mph, its a better indicator.

From previous attempts (on closed reads :wassup: ) to get the car going from stationary it does spin its nuts off and that was launching at 3000 revs.

But beacuse of the stiff coilovers the car seems to do a jumping jack flash at the rears all over the place. Hmm. Ill do the usual let the tyres out and so forth but dont know much about the stiff suspension?..

launching on a road and a track are completely different.

when you launch u should launch using ur handbrake... also dont flat ur foot... hold to about 3k and let the clutch out.... dont dump it... feather the throttle so ur backing off just a little when its spinning to gain traction and then balance it with more revs etc and once u have enough traction put the foot into its arse and change ur gears as quick as possible :D

OK Boyz.. I did a 14.2 my best time.. with spare tyre in the back + subs woofer, bad launches, Faulty gearbox (all gears hard to get into and crunching) and speakers etc.. pretty much street trim on the car..

Should have been a high 13's but oh wellz... its a drift car afterwall not a drag car. :wassup:

LOL Will post up my sheet soon and a vid of me running it.

here is my time slip. Damn it with the speed i was carrying i should have been a high 13's for sure. What u guys reckon. becuase due to meggala he said that at 98mph would have been a low 14's. But at 100.88 on mine would have been at least a 13.9 or lower. :)

My rection and 60 foot timed sucked. LOL .. not bad for a first go btw. So what u guys reckon.

Im still trying to upload the vid onto sau.

969314_mile_run_142_smally.jpg

the guy next to me was a vl commhore.. Absolute sleeper. It looked like a stock vl.. with bad panels and paint etc. Only found out what he had under the hood when he pulled away from me after 2rd gear. rb25 block with bigger turbo i found out later on. LOL. :thumbsup:

I was mugged i tell ya.. hahaha

meh thats not that bad for the time :thumbsup:

Dr_Drift ran a 14.05 in my R32 with 142.5rwkw @ 93MPH

shows what a launch can do for ur times :)

The soarer ran a 13.8 @ 102MPH but thats a much heavier car and an auto...

it only had 154rwkw

Damn commodores with Nissan engines in them. :thumbsup: At least you know you got done by an import engine though :)

I think perhaps we are all a little jaded now with the 10 sec factor. A 14 sec time and low at that is good. I'd be lucky if my A31 ran a 20 second pass *chuckle*

Damn commodores with Nissan engines in them. :thumbsup: At least you know you got done by an import engine though :)

I think perhaps we are all a little jaded now with the 10 sec factor. A 14 sec time and low at that is good. I'd be lucky if my A31 ran a 20 second pass *chuckle*

My mates call VL's "poor man's skylines" lol!

and i totally agree with your "10 second factor comment"...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...