Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The drivers side power window has been slowly dieing and is now completely dead and wound all the way down too, so I can't really drive anywhere and leave it :D

I've pulled out the mechanism that all the buttons are on and checked the wires which visibly look ok, all other buttons on it are functioning fine.

Any ideas what parts I'm looking for, is the mechanism with all the buttons on it the actual motor or is that a seperate part?

TAI!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50963-broken-drivers-power-window/
Share on other sites

Had the window been going down on a strange angle b4 that, i had the nylon roller break on me in the runners. Made up a new one b4 it put too much stress on winder motor. Also their may have been a loud bang if runner came out of balljoint. If not then i'd say ur motor is faulty. Cheers

most likely the switch....same problem happened to me. Because the switch was faulty (the drivers side has the 2mode switch...hold down/up to operate or just one touch for automatic) the switch would remain on and so burnt out the motor...so new switch and motor - $150 each. Then my switch needed to be rebuilt so add another $150. Note that there is a difference in switches...my '93 R33 series 1 switch was different to normal...something about a change is design between series....

Easiest way to find out would be to get a friends driver side button thingo, pull it out (its only 1 screw from inside the handle)unplug it and then plug it into your door. If its still no go then your window motor is fkt. My mate had a window motor replaced on his r33 but the guy didnt' put in a skyline one because he couldn't find one, so he popped in another window motor and the window used to go up like 3 times faster than a normal skyline window motor hehe.

same thing happened to me tonite. I used to hit da door quite a few times and it used to come up. But now i've tried everything and it won't go up. i'm hoping it is only the switch because it neva has a problem going down. but $150 for a new switch??? can i get dem ne cheaper??? or any way just to trick it back up and never use the window again?

my power window hasnt been workin for weeks now and its bloody anoying when u go drive thru or need to talk to someone. wat u do is flick the switch up a couple times till u hear the motor turn and then help it out by pulling up on the window with ur hand. or disconect the motor from the switch and run alternate power to it. mine didnt seem to work when i did that so i assume my motors stuffed not my switch.

JAPCAP -- any chance u could find out what motor that was?? im sure theres other motors out there that would fit. maybe 200sx motors??

  • 5 years later...

It always is the power window regulator and its a common problem (& no, it is not the switch). I replaced mine 3 years ago with a second hand one I found for 75$. Did it myself its not too hard. The damn thing just happened yet again n i got a quote for one and its going to be 195$ for the part now. Thinking of trying to repair the old one this time, its the little bit of carbon pad that gets worn off, the mechanism is completely find asides that. Its a very long shot, will let you know if I have any success with it.

post-75459-1280102457_thumb.jpg

had the same problem with my swich, found that the lever under the button to acivate the upward swich was broken, would go down fine but wouldnt go up. ended up buying another p/w swich for $50 havent had problems since

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...