Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm sure they just leave km/h on the bottom because it is easiest for the dyno operator...they don't need gear or diff ratios for each car. It is of course bloody useless for everyone else untill you convert it :D

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I didnt see the last bit of tuning or the dyno run for which i got the printout....but all other uns i did see were always in 4th gear. The dyno sheet doesnt list all the parameters so i dont know. Im welding up a middle pipe to replace my cat and centre muffler then going to give it another run to see if power and response is helped.

I suspect they stopped the dyno run at 6,100-6,200rpm because power starts to taper off and this car has been jinxed whilst in their shop...so i think they were glad to hand it back in one piece:)

Im confident its 4th gear, just based on the way the turbo spools and how it matches the plot...and in 3rd gear that equates to just over 8,000rpm and i have my rev limit at 7,100rpm for the time being:)

Interesting how RB20's cams seem to be restricting it to peak power just after 6000 rpm, this is very similar to what mine was like on the dyno the other day

I installed my PFC boost controller kit on the weekend (Targa Tom, thanks mate!) as mine was dropping of boost after about 5500 rpm, it would drop from 17/18spi to 14/15, peak power was at around 6200rpm, 205rwkw and after that it would drop of pretty quick, with 7100ish dropping back to around 190rwkw

Will be interesting to see how the boost controller performs with the boost drop off.

If cams are the problem, then I have a set of GTR cams that I could put in later on :P

I'm sure they just leave km/h on the bottom because it is easiest for the dyno operator...they don't need gear or diff ratios for each car.  It is of course bloody useless for everyone else untill you convert it :D

Or too lazy to connect up the rpm lead.:P

ok rb20s are strong

saturdays drag day i did 48 runs a new WSID record, i turned the car off once or twice for 10mins all day, i literally did a run went around and did another

temperature stayed very low the whole time, at the end of the strip when i was doing a u-turn temps were back to my normal cruise temp.

best run was 45th run. 12.987 @ 104mph 1.8 60'

i have 199.6rwkw hks 2530, gtr inj, wolf, eboost

car was strong as an ox all day

i ran about 6+ 13.0*

rb20 power!!@!!!!

Evan

ok rb20s are strong

saturdays drag day i did 48 runs a new WSID record, i turned the car off once or twice for 10mins all day, i literally did a run went around and did another

temperature stayed very low the whole time, at the end of the strip when i was doing a u-turn temps were back to my normal cruise temp.

best run was 45th run. 12.987 @ 104mph 1.8 60'

i have 199.6rwkw hks 2530, gtr inj, wolf, eboost

car was strong as an ox all day

i ran about 6+ 13.0*

rb20 power!!@!!!!

Evan

A friend was telling me about your effort on the weekend:thumbsup:

Finally got my car back!

R31 GTS-R RB20 eccs red top. Only mods are Autronic ECU, exhaust and pod.

185rwkw. Was over 220kw but injectors and pump were begging for mercy.

Boost ramps to 18psi just over 4,000 and then settles at 14psi 4800 onwards.

They say an EBC will get me a more stable boost curve.

Looking at the RWD and power delivery. In 2nd gear it equates to about 190rwkws at about 60km/h and the thing gets power down nicely with the susp setup i have.

If i go to a smaller exhaust housing to get the thing coming on boost earlier and i am making about 190rwkws at 50km/h is it reasonable to assume i will still be getting good power down?

Gave the car its first hit at 1.3bar yesterday in 2nd thru 3rd gear...have to say the look on my face was as though i had just screwed the neighbours daughter:) So if the smaller housing means mroe response great, but if it means traction probs in 2nd gear then im less interested in the trade off?!?!?!?!?!!!?

I'd say you might start to get traction problems mate, as with more power + less speed, I reckon will result in wheel spin

Mine comes on pretty hard at about 50ish, haven't really looked at the speedo, but sometimes is does wheelspin, depends on the road surface etc

I'd wait until you get a few good laps in and see what its like on the track, I reckon it would be perfect!

Gave the car its first hit at 1.3bar yesterday in 2nd thru 3rd gear...have to say the look on my face was as though i had just screwed the neighbours daughter:)  So if the smaller housing means mroe response great, but if it means traction probs in 2nd gear then im less interested in the trade off?!?!?!?!?!!!?

LOL, i had that same look when i boosted my newly tuned GTS4 with 1.3bar.

It absolutely transforms the car compared with when it was stock, I'm sure you agree Roy :)

Looking at the RWD and power delivery. In 2nd gear it equates to about 190rwkws at about 60km/h and the thing gets power down nicely with the susp setup i have.  

If i go to a smaller exhaust housing to get the thing coming on boost earlier and i am making about 190rwkws at 50km/h is it reasonable to assume i will still be getting good power down?

Gave the car its first hit at 1.3bar yesterday in 2nd thru 3rd gear...have to say the look on my face was as though i had just screwed the neighbours daughter:)  So if the smaller housing means mroe response great, but if it means traction probs in 2nd gear then im less interested in the trade off?!?!?!?!?!!!?

What size tyres and how sticky? We have been Running 205/50/16 in Targa, and will wear a set or two out at Basky next Month... but if I was starting from scratch I would be running 245/45/17. Propbably M1 Dunlops. The old D01J's are good for Rally, but suffer on the circuit.

We ran well in excess of -3deg camber with 225's and it was locking the inside fronts... rear still a little loose. Will come back a notch next time to give the front some push.

Seems like you have the kW, now you just need some grip...

TT

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys,

I'm just in the process of trying to work out which turbo to use on my RB20 R32 GTS-T. I've just had a Wolf 3d hooked up, and its already has a pump, regulator, front mont, full 3 inch exhaust - you know all the usual backup gear.

Has anyone used a hi flow VG30DET turbo, or am I betterff getting something like a trust unit. I only want 200rwkw, but would like a good useable band of power.

I'll have a dyno graph over the next few days to post with the stocker in place.

and then sold the RB20DET top end for $300 to a guy who put it on an RB30 bottom end, go figga :wassup:

I didn't think you could put the rb20 head onto the rb30 bottom end? Is what your saying just a miss type? Or can it really be done?

Using my Rb20 head would be a lot more easy, then looking for an rb25 head if I went that way with a motor build up.

My Budget RB20DET-

Imported with HKS Super Dragger exhaust and K&N Big Mother air pod

Added TurboSmart boost controller - $250, dynoed @ 150rwkw

Added Dump Pipe - $300

Added Cold Air Induction - Free

Added RB25 Turbo - $350

Added Front-Mount - $500 (inc pipes, see http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=47918)

Added additional Cold Air Induction - $50

Next I want to remap the ECU and then it's time to Dyno it again. Hopeing to be around 200rwkw for around $1K. Then that's it with RB20DET, move on before blowing the budget.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...