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The restrictor I dont know cant be doing any good in there spose I should rip it out. I think its only on cefiros and laurels rb20  to restrict power dont know why though.

Not sure thats a restrictor. I guess its in the main entry from the AFM by the look of it. It may be a air smoothing device which is a benefit to guide the air into the turbo entry smoothly which will enhance response and power even though it may reduce volume a bit.

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I think that piece is actually inside the pipe itself, not before the AFM.

TurboX. The duct you gave me isn't even close to the R34.

I think the BOV and PCV returns are about the same size and that's the only similarity.

This is going to be a long project.

Can I ask, just wondering on how you will go from an 80mm initially to the turbo intake of 60mm. will it be gradual or just put a narrowing at the mouth of the turbo. I am just thinking about making my own up, not trying to be cheap, but if the R32 and the cefiro are totally different then maybe easier to make my own up if I get the time, and the motivation.

Cefiro.

I've been dreaming about this very dilema.

Not only is getting from the 80 to 60 difficult, so is getting the right sized silicone hoses!

I'll most likely be reducing just before the turbo mouth ot before the bend. I'd say just before the turbo is the most likely, whilst keeping the longest possible straight section into the turbo mouth.

Cefiro.

I've been dreaming about this very dilema.

Not only is getting from the 80 to 60 difficult, so is getting the right sized silicone hoses!

I'll most likely be reducing just before the turbo mouth ot before the bend.  I'd say just before the turbo is the most likely, whilst keeping the longest possible straight section into the turbo mouth.

Is there a silicon reducer in that size we could use?

I'm currently investigating a reducer.

They have been quite expensive from a few places.....

The straight stuff is no problem as it comes in a big long hose, the reducers are individual pieces which have to be made specially.

I'm currently investigating a reducer.

They have been quite expensive from a few places.....

The straight stuff is no problem as it comes in a big long hose, the reducers are individual pieces which have to be made specially.

Doh!.

which will cost more though? the reducers or getting the pipe tappered?

I think the reducing hoses will be more expensive. Last quote from Purple Pig was about $100

I'm waiting to hear back from Shift.

Guest darrinspencer
I think the reducing hoses will be more expensive.  Last quote from Purple Pig was about $100

I'm waiting to hear back from Shift.

Q1. What size reducers do you need?

I bought some Hurricane silicone reducers recently for about $32 each

Should be able to get a better discount with quanity you need here 30-40 off

Q.2 What are you making the alloy pipe from

Straight pipe segmented i.e alot of welds

or mandrel bends?

Q3. Can it be made out of 3 inch pipe all the way then reduce down to the turbo with a silicone reducer?

Q4.Would a 90deg bend and a 45deg bend be enough to fabricate the pipe?

I may have a cheaper/better way of buying the alloy mandrel bends.

I need you to answer the questions to see if it would work.

Thanks

Darrin.

Q1. What size reducers do you need? 

I bought some Hurricane silicone reducers recently for about $32 each

Should be able to get a better discount with quanity you need here 30-40 off

Would be going from about 80 (or 3 inch) to 60 (or 2.5 inch)

Q.2 What are you making the alloy pipe from

Straight pipe segmented i.e alot of welds

or mandrel bends?

Probably from Mandrel Bent Angles. They have a straight on each end of the mandrel bend. Makes it easy to either clamp or weld to it.

Q3. Can it be made out of 3 inch pipe all the way then reduce down to the turbo with a silicone reducer?

Possibly, depending on price and final conmplexity. Very close to the turbo inlet is the standard BOV and PCV returns are. May or may not be possible to put a reducer there.

Q4.Would a 90deg bend and a 45deg bend be enough to fabricate the pipe?

Probably not. There needs to be a straight section somewhere to make up the length. A few people I have spoken to have used steel donuts and cut them to suit, but then you need to weld a setion in between them and to the ends so you can clamp to a straight section.

I may have a cheaper/better way of buying the alloy mandrel bends.

I need you to answer the questions to see if it would work.

Thanks

Darrin.

FYI Shift came back with a very good price on the reducers, but I'll have to see how the duct looks and goes together before I can decided whether to use the reducer or not.

Guest darrinspencer

This is a suggestion that may work

I was at Autobarn a while ago, they had cold air intake pipes for commadores.

They are made from polished 3 inch alloy and have a 90 deg bend at one end and a 45 deg bend at the other end with approx 20cm of straight in between. Each end has been swaged as well to prevent the hoses from coming off.

I was thinking about buying one a cutting it up. Once re-welded back into shape, minimal polishing would be needed around the welds.

They were $69 each, which for a one off is nearly half price the price of buying a 90 and 45 deg mandrel bend from GCG.

This maybe a opion, it may not.

If you were to buy say 20-30 of these, I am sure they could do alot better then $69 each.

Darrin.

I've seen those pipes too, and I was actually going to fabriacte on for myself when I had a VN Commodore (I'm still a Holden man deep down)

The only problem being that we need extra bits welded to the pipes for the BOV and PCV.

Also, when I buy from my suppliers, I get much much much much better prices than the general public can buy at from places like GCG.

Guest
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