Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been shown ARP SR rod bolts on a GTS-t rod (you don't need the crank) just put the rod bolt thru at the big end and from what I saw, the nut only screws on about three turns of thread - leaving the nut half on and half off. Didn't look very safe to me.

* Caveat to this is what I was being shown was exactly what I had been told the bits were.

Yeah - what we need is for someone to take pics - I also wanna see the difference between a GTR Rod and a GTS-t Rod (standard).

And also the reason why GTR Forged Rod (aftermarked eg Eagle, etc) won't work on a GTS-t - ??

:confused:

Nup they work fine, we have just done 2 motors one with Forged Pistons and Forged crower rods. Using RB26 forged crower rods on a RB25.

Also I will take photos of my setup with, Rb25, using Rb26 Rods and Sr20 ARP Rod bolts. to confirm they work. When we checked the rod bolts the SR's were actually longer then the standard RB25 Rod bolts.

Also the photo attached is of the current Rb25 We built, with the forged rb26 crower rods and Arias Pistons.

I will upload another one before we put the sump on.

Nup they work fine, we have just done 2 motors one with Forged Pistons and Forged crower rods. Using RB26 forged crower rods on a RB25.

Also I will take photos of my setup with, Rb25, using Rb26 Rods and Sr20 ARP Rod bolts. to confirm they work. When we checked the rod bolts the SR's were actually longer then the standard RB25 Rod bolts.

Also the photo attached is of the current Rb25 We built, with the forged rb26 crower rods and Arias Pistons.

I will upload another one before we put the sump on.

Hmm - that engine bay looks familiar :)

can BBQ or SST answer a few questions........u seem to have a bit of experience in this particular discussion....

i think the forum has agreed that rb30 rods are capable of pushing 400rwkw....ive seen many 3L punch out ~350rwkw on standard rods and are thrashed day in day out...

the weekest link being rod bolts...if u address this, shot peen them....wouldnt it make the rod pretty reliable??

a rb30 rod is physically thinner than a rb25 if i can recall......wouldnt this then make the rb25 rod physicallly stronger???

i just dont hear of rods shooting through blocks that often......

i also agree with peoples thoughts of revs killing rods....8000rpm i figure would be within the grasp of a shotpeened and rodbolted rb25 standard rod.....if i make 180kw at this figure the rod spins with the same rpm as when i make 300+kw....is this change required?

what i dont get is when u upgrade the pistons and rods to forged items.....y leave the crank STANDARD???

obviously u will think twice about reving ur motor to 10,000rpm???? or does it mean u can rev to 9,000rpm???

is it worth the ~$1500 upgrade ?

(obviously it is.... if ur pockets are deep enough, but what if they arent?...which i think that is what this thread is about)

y dont people address the crank too???......everything is rotating and pumping on one another isnt it??? well thats what i think...feel free to comment :D

Nissan cranks are very tough,ND4SPD turns to 10000+rpm and has never given any crank problems and an RB25 crank is a little shorter in stroke but the same build quality as a 26 crank so dont worry about hurting the crank if your build is done right.

As i said earler i have never seen any RB rod fail other than its bolts just a set of GTR rods are cheap peace of mind.

what i dont get is when u upgrade the pistons and rods to forged items.....y leave the crank STANDARD???

obviously u will think twice about reving ur motor to 10,000rpm???? or does it mean u can rev to 9,000rpm???

Brand new from japan

Tomei Crankshaft is $5,697.50 + $500 shipping and maby another $400 on import tax and duty.

forged pistons $1500

Forged con-rods $2400

Thats already $10,497 then if your doing the usual upgrades with bigger turbo, injectors, fuel pump etc:

Turbo $2000

Injectors $1000

Fuel pump $450

Z32 AFM: $460 - brand new

GReddy plenum: $1400

Apexi PFC: $1100

boost solonide for pfc: $350

etc... thats total of $17,257

Don't forget your machineing bill from the engine reconditioner :( - $2000 +

As steve stated the nissan cranks are very strong,

With forged internals you can rev you engine as much as you like but your (rb25det) head wont handel it eg: Cam shafts, valves, valve springs etc

Hope that helps,

:D

can BBQ or SST answer a few  questions........u seem to have a bit of experience in this particular discussion....

i think the forum has agreed that rb30 rods are capable of pushing 400rwkw....ive seen many 3L punch out ~350rwkw on standard rods and are thrashed day in day out...

the weekest link being rod bolts...if u address this, shot peen them....wouldnt it make the rod pretty reliable??

a rb30 rod is physically thinner than a rb25 if i can recall......wouldnt this then make the rb25 rod physicallly stronger???

i just dont hear of rods shooting through blocks that often......

i also agree with peoples thoughts of revs killing rods....8000rpm i  figure would be within the grasp of a shotpeened and rodbolted rb25 standard rod.....if i make 180kw at this figure the rod spins with the same rpm as when i make 300+kw....is this change required?

what i dont get is when u upgrade the pistons and rods to forged items.....y leave the crank STANDARD???

Originally this thread was started about upgrading RB25det Internals,

The week link in an rb25 motor is usually the Ring lands on the standard pistons, and the Con-Rods once you start pushing serious power out. It becomes a reliability issue, to upgrade the rods while you’re doing the pistons at the same time.

I know of many rb25 motors pushing rods out the block that’s why a cheaper alternative is to upgrade to the Rb26 Rod system. So you don’t have to incurring the cost of forged items up front.

The crank as many other people all ready know, is a reasonably strong item in the rb series motors. That’s why it doesn’t appeal to skyline owners who want reasonable horse power on a low budget. As Jun has stated the cost of a crank from Japan isn’t cheap. And not viable until your planing on competing against GTR700.

The actual size of the rods dose not determine its strength. If you compared the standard rb26 rods against the forged rb26 rods they are not really that much bigger in physical size, What actually makes them stronger is the material compound they are made out of. Hence the process of forging.

As for rod bolts you would be crazy not to replace them with New blots or at-least ARP blots to sustain the integrity of your motor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...