Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi There,

Quick question.

I've done a bit of searching and can't find much info..

I'm going to install a front mounted I/C.

Question is: How do I take the front bumper off (R33 gts-t series 2)?

Is there anything I should know before I take it off (how easy is it)?

Also is it bolt's or clips holding the bumper on (and roughly how many??)?

Thanks for your help.

Cheers

Rob

Guest MFX_R33

Pull the grill out (clips on the back), there are plastic screws under there. there are from memory 2 10mm's under the front gaurd. You have to remove the plastic gaurd liner and there is a thin metal brace behind that on both sides. From memory that is about it besides uncliping the lights.

Jeff.

When fitting my FMIC we didnt need to remove the lights.

The grill is a bitch to remove, mind you it was bloody cold when we did it.

some clips are under the grill, two bolts either side just under the front of the quarter panel and 2 bolts on the underside either side holding the splash tray in place.

PS: yes mines a series two also

It is an easy job.

There are two 10mm screws on each side, just in front of the wheel, remove all of these first, next there are two 14mm bolts that hold the thing to the car on each side. sort of behind the indicators, loosen the back two but don't completely remove them (makes it easier to put back on), completely remove the front two.

Slide the bar forward a bit so you can get your hands in to unplug the indicators, then lift the whole assembly clear of the car. If you need to separate the plastic bit form the metal bit there are several clips which are easily accessible now the bar is off the car.

Reverse the process to refit. Should take no longer than 5mins.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...