Jump to content
SAU Community

nude chicks posing on skylines!!

mark morris

By mark morris,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

mark morris Enthusiast

mark morris

Posted
Posted

Hi,

so now I have all of your attention, I was wondering if I could pick all ya brains on something.

I am buying a r33 gtr, (rb26) and had a compression test done on it and the results were as follows (psi) 105, 105, 105, 110, 125, 110, now the mechanic said that was good.

and as I belive it, it is good as the lowest reading is more than 75% of the highest, but I was wondering if the over all (psi) was to low, ie. I have herd the rb26 is suposed to have 171 psi as a factory fresh motor, if this is the case than is it right that the motor has droped that much compression in (an aparent) 66,000kms.

Im a little parinoid, as Ive never spent sooo! much money!!

any advice would awsome! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51990-nude-chicks-posing-on-skylines/
Share on other sites
gtrken Grand Master

gtrken

Posted
Posted

Would be better to post what you want but anyway..

The figures sound very low for a RB26 engine. I would suggest up around 150ish to be more in keeping with the mileage.

A cylinder leakage test is better indication of wear plus it gives an idea of where the problems may be by where the air leaks out.

I would suggest taking it to a w/shop experienced in dealing with these type of vehicles .

If your NOR , come to see us, if SOR SST is probably the go. There are other shops but both of us are SAUWA sponsors and try to look after our members.

Cheers

Ken

GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted

Mark, I agree with GTRKEN's analysis, but it is also the spread of compression that is important not the actual figure necessarily. Depends how many cranks they allow while doing the comp test. The spread between 125-105 isn't too bad, but as suggested a leak-down test may show more.

Cheers

Paul

gtr fan Experienced

gtr fan

Posted
Posted

Hi there, I bought my r32 gtr august 2003 and it had 108k on the clock. A compression test came back with all 6 cylinders being between high 150's and low 160's. Maybe use this and other peoples info as a comparison :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...