Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

from others expirianes, people who have the .63 ( i was reffering to the gt30/.82 on an rb25) they come on quite sharply inducing wheelspin and not making the car as friendly.

And rear housings impact the power output too dont forget.

and even bigger, 1.0x is too laggy on a 25, but my comments are related to a street car. Keep that in mind. If your racing is different of course.

yes totally understand mate, i too am going to be in the turbo choosing boat later on after i get my engine back together. the .82 rear is seeming the wise choice, i was going to go 1.06 as i was told that would be awesome but i want a broad power band not the very narrow band.

I had a gt30 on my rb25. It had the .82 rear housing. Made a best of 310rwkw on pump. Nothing below 3500rpm. Full boost at 4500rpm. Would die by 6500rpm. When it came on boost fried the tyres. I personally didnt like the characteristics of the turbo and the amount of boost needed to make that power. The smallest i would personally go is the .87 rear. I had 1.05 rear on my t88. Full boost @ 5000rpm held all the way to 8000rpm. Started making boost at 3800rpm and dip in power up top either. Didnt come on savage too.

Id say the .82 is better suited for like an rb20/ sr20/ or 280rwkw rb25.

That just my experience.

Gt3540r are making big power on 30det as said. Just gota choose the right one for your set up

yeah, i am bumping my rev limit to 8000rpm so i wouldnt want it to run out of puff by 6500!!! thats abit silly. What does the TD06-25G housing equate to that u had? that was good aye? hav eu had any experience with the TD07-25G?

my gt30 .82ex doesnt run outta puff @ 6500, it makes power all the way into the 7000rpm range with ~270rwkw and only drops off at the limiter of around 7500, and then thats where cams are probably are required for that little bit more.

I've got 200rwkw+ by 4000 and its very smooth to the 7000rpm/270rwkw mine doenst feel at all weak above 6500rpm.

Mind you its not a hell amount of boost either, it'll take a few more psi on pump yet.

just gotta get another as mine shat a bearing. Just about brand new so its a rarity

I was thinking along the lines of the GT3540R (a real one not the seven bladed TO4S piece of crap) and a REAL GT style .82AR exhaust housing . I would like to see positive pressure at a bit over 2000 and .8 to 1.0 Bar from 3000 to 6800 . So is anyone using the real one ?

Our project R33 RB25DET is running a 700hp version of the GT3040 with .70a/f and .82 rear. - Garrett version not HKS

Its on full boost by 4700rpm with standard cams at the moment. It dies a little bit up top in 1st & 2nd gear between 6500 & 7000rpm but it 3rd and 4th its opposite it pulls even harder when it hits 6000 to 7500rpm. Because its such a large turbo it takes a while to get going so in 3rd and 4th the topend is huge.

On the drag strip 1/4 a small shot of nitrous will help get it off the line.

GT3530r should be fine on a RB30DET i'd like to see how it goes. :)

:)

Jun

Bingo...why have a huge arse turbo, but no cams....?

yes, but remember, for the little bit.

In the whole cost vs result, it would be a an improvement of course. But as my budget is extremely tight i cant justify the cost of cams when the stock head for the most part is doing very well.

Cameron.. i would like to know the number also, never heard of a 700hp GT30 in 70comp/.82 rear

Cameron I looked into that one too , my Garrett contact (in US) said he would not put that on anything because of the difference in turbine vs compressor diameter ie 60mm and 82mm . In his opinion the extra work the turbine is asked to do to drive the GT40 compressor costs it turbine efficiency (slip losses at the turbine) . These are his opinions so I'm not desputing anyone elses choise . Its a shame the Garrett PDF cattledog does not show the GT3040R so we could see the turbine efficiency graph . It does show the GT35R (GT3540R) and the turbine efficiency is I think 74% which is quite high . Its a pity Garrett don't do a larger trim GT30 compressor to use with the GT35 turbine , I believe it would work like a GT28RS scaled up 50% .

Cheers A .

CHRA # 700177-14 has the usual 84 trim/60mm 30 series turbine wheel but has the 82mm, 56 trim GT40 on it - flowing ~65lbs/min. This is an off the shelf Garrett item. Can you ask your Garrett contact why he doesn't want to "put" that compressor wheel on that sized turbine, when you can buy one directly from Garrett?

Also, you can get a larger trim GT30 compressor wheel (T04S - don't be fooled by the "T04S" designation as these are the new line) than the 56trim offered on the GT30R, there is a 60 trim wheel available that flows ~60lbs/min. CHRA # 700177-13 has that combo. That is with a 76mm exducer diameter, and 59mm inducer.

Side note: there is a T04S 63 trim wheel but it has an exducer diameter of 84mm, but it flows ~70lbs/min. Rockin'!

Its been customized internaly. The computer with the digital camera pictures on it has a broken video card but i'll try and get it thursday for you.

I was told that its the new model of the garrett GT3040. You carnt tell the difference apart from the normal 600hp and the 700hp version as its internal work thats been done.

I've got one pic here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=21556

I've tryed seaching for the part number in garrett catalogs and can't find it anywere.

;)

Jun

Was at dyson rotary today, craig built an rb25 using a gt3540, on 18psi made 480rwhp on pump. Built engine with hks cams and cam gears, plenum etc etc.

Should be out at the track once finishes off some things on it.

From what craig told me it has a .6* (*not sure either a 4 or 7 or what) rear housing.

Hey discopotato,

How does the Garrett guru align his opinions on compressor/turbine relative sizing, considering the radically differing conditions each are operating in, i.e gas velocity/density? Would the more sizeable turbine with its inherently costlier inertial energy requirements not lead to losses of its own, i.e. slip? I am also considering this turbo for my next '30DET build but am unsure what to pick between the .82/1.06 tubine housing. What does he think?

Intreresting thread.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...