Jump to content
SAU Community

tick Tick Tack Bugger off

Bobjones

By Bobjones,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bobjones Mentor

Bobjones

Posted
Posted

Ok I have got to the end of my mental sanity...

I have a metallic ticking noise that starts at about 70-80km/h. It is loud enough that you can hear it at these speeds especially when driving beside a concrete or metal barrier as it seems to come from the DRIVERS side and definitely in the front...

This sound continues to 100-110km/h and is very constant as in methodical tick tick tick, and only slightly increased in reptitions as speed increases...

Now the tough part!!!

I have looked at the following aspects: and to no affect:

- All the fron wishbones, sway bars etc etc all bolts are tight and no bushes broken (I just replaces the drivers side tie rod end...and problem still there)...

- All the under body trays are secure, but the sound is metallic so that rules that out to start with...

- I no longer have a drivers side inner guard, front section. I have fabricated a brace from the sub frame to the side of the front bar, this is secure as is the rest of the inner guard so that rules that out.

- Engine just was rebuild and noise is not engine related otherwise revs would affect the noise...

I am lost anyone that can help out that may have had a similar noise please help its driving me insane. I am unsure if it is the power steering pump or any such thing. My mechanic and I have spent countless hours trying to work this out and everything works fine, no leaks just a really really annoying ticking noise...

Thanks

Neill

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52405-tick-tick-tack-bugger-off/
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

What is the car?

You would be surprised where sounds ACTUALLY come from, often totally different to where they APPEAR to come from.

Have you looked at the inside faces of the wheels - there might be a clearance problem with the caliper, or similar.

Bobjones Mentor

Bobjones

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have removed all the wheels, they are 18x7.5 and the clearances are fine on the wishbone and the calipers. I have inscpected all the tyres and there are no nails or foreign objects...I even removed the smallest of stones in the tread with a screwdriver...

These sounds are louder than a nail or anything in a tyre...I have had people drive beside me and hear it and definitely the front...

I am reasonably mechanically minded - read I have been swinging spanners with my old boy since I was 8...and I cannot figure it out...

Oh and I almost forgot...R33 GTST, done 61,000kms...

Bobjones Mentor

Bobjones

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Spacers on your front wheel can make a sound like you have discribed. Do you have spacers?

Negative...there are SMALL plastic adapters used on the front around the hub, against the rotor for the wheels as the centre of the wheels are wider...but thats it...

Bobjones Mentor

Bobjones

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If it was the wheel brearing then it would make a noise even a slight one at lower speeds.

The bearing has been checked also...its driving me insane...

Did yours make a ticking noise or a clunking noise, or yet again a grinding noise????

And how much is a new bearing...

Bobjones Mentor

Bobjones

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok well I spent alot of time again on the weekend and checked the following:

- Wheel bearing visual inspection only as it is a sealed unit. removed ABS sensor and all grease is fine, no metal particles and bearing makes NO noise when rotated (if it was going I would suspect it would make a noise at any speed)

- All gaskets inclduing inlet and exhaust, no leaks.

-Alternator bearing, no noise at any RPM or load,

- Uni joints, no noise bugger all play...

- As for valve spring then it would be there at various revs, also note that new springs were put into place when the engine was rebuilt 2,000km's ago...

the last thing I am going to look at is the brakes and whether the pads are moving around at all in the caliper...ran out of time to check this...

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • dbm7
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • Duncan
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • S1_C34
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By S1_C34 · Posted

      I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
×
×
  • Create New...