Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is there any advantage to get the D-Jetro version instead of the plain jane stuff? I know I can go toss the AFM's out with MAP sensors with the D-Jetro. The car is still running the stock pair of turbo.

The only thing I can see is, I can go sell my Z32 AFM's to recoup the money spent on the PowerFC D-Jetro.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52435-powerfc-vs-powerfc-d-jetro/
Share on other sites

Wouldn't bother.

Unless you are chasing obscene amounts of power where the 90mm Q45 infinity AFM's are too small, keep the AFM's and just buy the normal PowerFC.

Why buck the system. Many more people can tune them with AFMs.

In my case I wish I got a D-Jetro instead of the normal Power FC. Apparently my combination of cams, turbos & custom intake resulted in "pulsing" of air through the AFMs making the car undriveable on light throttle settings (2 volt swings on the afms). This never would have presented a problem with a D-Jetro although my case is probably a more uncommon problem.

Like I've said before, the only reason was, it only cost slightly more for the D-Jetro AND the MAP sensor kit and at the end, I could ditch my Z32 AFM and sell it which works out to be cheaper than buying the normal kit.

slapper - how difficult was it to tune your car may I ask? How long did it took?

go_nuts - the tuner is having to make up a balance pipe between the 2 afms which he is doing next week, it will go back for a second attempt at tuning then, will keep you posted. In hindsight, the cost & wasted time with the Power FC was not worth it, I should have gone a Motec M600.

We have some wild GTRs running Wolf plug ins with no MAP sensor problems so the D-j PFC will be fine. Do you have a compressor surge problem or have you removed the factory BOVs?

Steve, its a rapid succession of chuff-chuff type noises coming out the compressor side of the turbos that only happens on light throttle - it is running a GReddy Type R BOV that is vented to the atmosphere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...