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My car is missing in high rpm so I thought I'd check the coil packs. They all read 1.2 ohms when you measure as per the instructions

http://www.powerlink.co.nz/~graeme/faq/30.html

As they are all at this level I am thinking there is a chance it is the $20 multi meter more so than the coil packs

I have my dodgy multimeter dial set to 200ohms, is this correct?

Also how do I test the ignitor/amplifier?

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Set the meter to the lowest scale possible to get an accurate reading. If you touch the leads on the meter together, you may get a reading on the meter. e.g. 0.4 ohms. This is the resistance of the leads and must be subtracted from the reading you get when you check anything. i.e. 1.1 - 0.4 = 0.7

Anyway, as long as they're all reasonably close, they should be fine. If you're really unlucky, one coil might be going open circuit when under load. If you know any sparkies, they'll have an insulation resistance tester which can pump 500v or 1000v through the coil (as opposed to a multimeter's 2-3volts). This will find very small breaks in the coil which won't show up with a multimeter.

Yep, I did a search on coil packs. I could not see cracks on any of them but three are not original coil packs so it has had problems before (one is off a CA18).

I just checked the multimeter reads .4ohms resistance so they are all .8ohms so they are fine.

Any idea on testing the ignitor with a multimeter?

(BTW its running a little smoother with the carbon tips cleaned)

Car is running fine now, I cleaned corrosion off the ignitor and cleaned the carbon tips (like I said before) It is pulling all the way to 7000 with out missing and boy does she bang into second gear.

No I haven't, I am far too lazy that even when I had the coil packs off I couldn't be stuffed pulling the plugs out.

What gap should I run in an RB20DET running 13-16.5 psi? (I thought it would be different to RB25DET b/c of the different compression ratios)

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