Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil starvation solution for RB engines.

Boosted Zed
 Share

Recommended Posts

Boosted Zed Mentor

Boosted Zed

Posted
Posted

A product worth looking into if you go to the track. RB motors are notorious for oil surge and starvation problems at the track. Saves putting a sump baffle although this would still be a good idea. A cheap option for high performance road or track car. Check out www.accusmp.com and this shows how it works http://www.accusump.com/acc_tech_diagrams.html I put one of the smaller ones in my zed race car recently. We also moded the sump to prevent oil falling out of the the bottom of the sump under g 's as an extra and also stops oil foaming up by the crank by thrashing the oil around. Although Zeds don't normally have oil starvation probs.

Bottom line is they keep constant oil pressure when oil pressure drops from oil starvation from harsh braking, accelerating and cornering, as oil in the bottom of the sump comes out and you have oil starvation problems. It is an alternative to pulling the motor out and putting sump baffle in, or can be used in conjunction with this and oil restrictors to the head. So if you are concerned about hitting the track and don't want to spend thousands pulling motor out and putting sump baffle consider this option. May also be a better option than a sump baffle. You can buy them direct from USA companies or we can supply them for around $400 to $500 Morroso brand. Plus - 10 braided hose and connections including T piece into the oil cooler line. Prob extra $150 to $200. Simple and easy to install.

Hopefully get a few more of you guys out to the track with us and off the streets. I am sure you would like to beat my zed.

Boosted Zed Mentor

Boosted Zed

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Don't know how long it lasts but at 7000rpm or more it only needs a very short time to do damage. You would need to have a passenger and watch the oil pressure guage I guess and even then may not be a accurate indication of very short time of oil starvation as there is a delay. Fitting one in a GTR engine bay may be difficult. Might fit though or may need a hole saw, or put in the boot and just run a line under the car. It only uses one line as it does not circulate the oil.

maccattack Proficient

maccattack

Posted
Posted
Fitting one in a GTR engine bay may be difficult.  Might fit  though or may need a hole saw, or put in the boot and just run a line under the car.  It only uses one line as it does not circulate the oil.

Also see the thread "Accusump vs Sump Mods" in the Forced Induction Forum.

I fitted an Accusump to my GTR and as you say finding a place to put it is a little difficult. We ended up mounting it inside the front bumper - just needed a slight modification. We had looked at plenty of other placed but were always mindful of a) keeping it outside the car - didn't want even the slightest chance of bursting and sending hot oil all over anyone, and B) keeping it as close to the engine as possible to maintain pressure.

I've run mine on the track since and have had no problems with it or oil pressure.

Maybe not as good as a full sump mod, but certainly a lot better than nothing at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
×
×
  • Create New...