Jump to content
SAU Community

Wiring Manual - R33 GTR V-Spec

Bobjones

By Bobjones,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bobjones Mentor

Bobjones

Posted
Posted

People,

GTR Cam on here is having some wiring issues and is after the wiring diagram and possibly the entire Workshop manual for a R33 GTR.

Now he has the one for the R33 GTR however the wiring loom as on his car is VERY different, unsure whether this relates to it being a V-Spec, however word is that this is the reason and there is a separate manual.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as we would all like to see this car back on the road ASAP.

If you have anything that could help please email me at

[email protected]

Or GTR Cam

[email protected]

Thanks

Neill

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52717-wiring-manual-r33-gtr-v-spec/
Share on other sites
EVO Cam Collaborator

EVO Cam

Posted
Posted
Oh god...not more zip ties

Nah mate.....

Stock ECU uses a twin fuel pump set up, ie high & low, whereas the Motec uses low only (std setup)... This appears to be why it's missing at the top (on the street under heavy load) as a result of the car squatting, there's not enough fuel being drunk.... hehe. This would explain why the missing at the top of the rev range isn't happening on the dyno (ie it's not squatting)...

So the guys are using a connector plug to mimic the stock ECU setup so as to ensure enough fuel is delivered...

Keep ya posted!

japtaxi Grand Master

japtaxi

Posted
Posted

sounds rather odd as with new wiring+relay setup, fuel pump should receive 13+ volts constantly so it'll pump as much as it can all the time (wears out the factory pump but too bad :P , upgrade to bigger one ) :confused:

Bobjones Mentor

Bobjones

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Agree with the Jap man on this one...the pump operates on a continous feed basis with unused fuel returning to the tank. And the fact is your using a Malpassi to reg fuel pressure so this should not alter becuase of the ECU...

*Looks at Walbro fuel pump on net*

Seems you will have to keep me updated!!!

krawler Mentor

krawler

Posted
Posted
sounds rather odd as with new wiring+relay setup, fuel pump should receive 13+ volts constantly so it'll pump as much as it can all the time (wears out the factory pump but too bad :( , upgrade to bigger one ) :confused:

Pht, what would you know about big fuel setups Will? :P

(we want pics!)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...