Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I'm looking at getting a power fc and boost controller, was originally thinking AVCR (or possibly go cheapo 2 stage tubosmart controller), but i've seen advertised on the nengun site another apexi boost control kit designed to work with the power fc. Apparently it works using the same solenoid as the avcr.

Has anyone used one of these or heard any stories about it?? It works out a fair bit cheaper than the avcr.

http://www.nengun.com/product_info.php?cPa...2a2303597da2a9d

If anyone has heard any stories about these it would be good to find out. If they suck i'd prefer to spend an extra few hundred for the avcr.

Cheers :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52762-power-fc-boost-control-kit/
Share on other sites

Its exactly the same solinoid, Just the avc-r has extra functions that you carnt access on the Power FC ecu. Eg: Start Duty, F/B Speed, Learn Gear, RPM based Boost etc.

The power fc will only let you control boost pressure and not use any of thoes other functions. - So if you just want to control boost buy the solinoid (If you have pfc) but if you want to play with the extra functions go the avc-r.

:cheers:

Jun

Bit of a highjack so sorry in advance but if you already have an EBC (i have a Blitz DualSBC), it is worth going the proper boost control kit with a PowerFC? (I have one of these babies due to arrive any day now). That is, should i sell my current EBC and get a proper solenoid for the PFC?

Yes i can dammage it. The more boost you run the hotter the exhaust wheel gets and the stock turbo exhaust wheel can only resist a certain amount of heat before it ends up into your cat.

AVC-R is a very good boost controler, Its not hard to use once you get the generel idea,

I havn't used the HKS evc myself but i've herd they are good aswel.

:wavey:

Jun

hmmmm don't really want spikes, stock turbo so if i get bad spikes can it damage it?? (say if i'm running like 10-12 psi and it starts bouncing to 14-15psi or something???)

i heard avcr was good?? would a hks evc be better??

i'm not trying to say that AVCRs are bad dude.. just at higher levels ie 1.2bar and above ... theres a tendency to spike .. on SOME applications ..... i'm still going to buy one regardless personally and i intend to run somewhere up to 1.2bar all going to plan.... plus it adds more bling to your interior lol

HKS EVC are very good units too .. but u get what u pay for in that respect

alot of tuners swear by Greedy Profec B .. the ole school black...

One of my mates used to run the Power FC with the boost control kit. He didn't like it tho and preferred a separate EBC because changing the boost properties was extremely tedious; it was accessed through several menus.

One of my mates used to run the Power FC with the boost control kit. He didn't like it tho and preferred a separate EBC because changing the boost properties was extremely tedious; it was accessed through several menus.

Sorry I don't understand, on the Commander it is under settings and boost control. I leave the Commander in that screeen and set the boost control up on the dyno and then on the road. I have no idea why you would want to hop in and out of the menus all the time to change the boost settings. I mean how many times are you going to set up the boost control, in 3 years I think I have done it twice.

Maybe it's me, I simply don't enjoy playing with the "toys", I actually prefer to drive the car. :(

One of my mates used to run the Power FC with the boost control kit. He didn't like it tho and preferred a separate EBC because changing the boost properties was extremely tedious; it was accessed through several menus.

The power FC boost contoller kit is extremely easy to set up. I managed to set up 4 boost settings in about 30 minutes with the help of my girlfriend.

  • 7 months later...

Hey guys sorry for digup of an old thread. For those that have this kit, I've noticed the powerfc has one aux plug in for the boost control kit, and it looks like its 5 wires. it appears the avcr solenoid is 2 wires and the pressure sensor is 3 wires. does this sound right so far? I would like to hook up a map sensor and plug it into the same loom but not actually use the avc-r solenoid. I already have a boost controller but would like hand controller to show boost pressure under monitor. So I figured using the sensor harness and map sensor (that the powerfc boost control kit uses) should achieve this. Does this sound logical? Nengun have the part numbers for the boost control sensor harness and map sensor for about $175au.

My max boost level control is via my right foot.

mine too. With a powerfc, you are stupid to think that you can just "give her a bit more boost"

As soon as you do that, it leans, and goes bang. Fuel Maps do what they are told, and nothing else. I really wonder why people have this need to Have "hi and low boost"

To me, its High and low WANK. If you need a low boost setting to drive slower, you shouldn't be on the road.

Wasn't aiming this at anyone, just my opinion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...