Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, so I'm bored at work.

I called up their customer service line 1300 134 555 option 3 then 1. Basically they couldn't tell me much.

Optimax apparently comes from only one refinery. The newport refinery. I tried to bait them into saying that there were either issues at the refinery, or issues with delivery. They didn't take the bait.

Ah well, that was fun. It relieved the boredom of work for a few minutes. :D

wil..

every where I have been today has been good, castlhill,baulkham hills, west ryde.. they all got around $1.12-$1.00..havent filled up for a while.. my car seemed gratefull afterwards lol :D

  • 2 weeks later...

This is the reply I got from Shell Australia today via email

Dear Edward,  

Thank you for contacting Shell Australia.  

In relation to your enquiry, the shortage of fuels recently has been caused by an unscheduled maintenance  shutdown at our Newport tank terminal. This has caused severe shortages of all  fuels.

The plant is now back on stream, however we anticipate it will take a few more days for  our drivers to  complete the back log of deliveries to  sites.  

It may be that some sites run out of product before the tankers can get back to them.  

We apologise sincerely for the inconvenience this has caused. Please be assured our plant managers and drivers are working around the clock to ensure  consistency of supply as best they are able.

I trust this has been of assistance to you.  

Regards  

Patricia O'Reilly  

Tell Shell Australia  

PH: 1300 134 555  

Well their is two places (in the World) were they cant sell Optimax and I found out WA is one of them, we only use Ultimate from BP over here, when I lived in Newcastle we always used Mobil's Premium as it is 98.8 to 98.9 (I drove tankers for 6 years and ran a fuel storage area so I learnt a bit about fuel).

One of the Japanese motorcycle builders told buyiers not to use Optimax in one of their up market bikes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...