Jump to content
SAU Community

Building a reliable racer engine. dry sump...

Dayna

By Dayna,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dayna Explorer

Dayna

Posted
Posted

Ok,

I have a R32 RB26DETT in my Cefiro, I use this on the street but mainly on the track in Drift Competitions.

I want this engine to be reliable, so have planned to spend a little bit of money to do the following mods, whats your thoughts, and anything else I should think of.

The engines ideal state will be around 450RWHP which is shit loads really, but hey why not. this is in the future with suitable turbos, computer, etc.

BUT FOR NOW:

I am going to pull engine down.

Get the Rods balanced, shot peened and new ARP rod bolts fitted.

Remove standard Oil Pump? (not sure if this is necessary for dry sump setup)

Install external 3-4(unsure of what is needed) stage oil pump, oil canister, remote filter, large oil cooler,

Modify standard sump for scavenging returns

Oil feed restrictor in block to prevent flooding of cam areas.

Change aloy plugs in crankshaft with cap screws (i heard they can fall out with high pressure oil pump)

Use standard gasket set, or aftermarket gasket set(tomei?) any point going tomei?

Is there anything important that i should know in regards to dry sumping the engine, anyone that has done this, i would be interested to know the plumbing side of it, i know how the dry sump works but actual real life plumbing of the rb26 would be helpful.

If bearings and rings are in good nick i will leave them alone.

With these basic mods, what power should i be able to support all day long?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks

Dayna

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi Dayna, dry sumping adds complexity and is not cheap, plus there are some convenience issues. Usually for good weight distrubution you would put the tank in the boot and run the lines though the cabin, as underneath is asking for them to get hit. The breather tank would also normally go in the boot as you have to vent the dry sump tank as would an oil filter. Add that to the fuel system plumbing and this makes the boot unuseable for carrying anything, even the spare wheel can be a hassle.

We have raced Skylines for a number of years and found a good winged and baffled sump to be very very effective in preventing oil surge. We have on board data logging in the race cars and I have never seen any evidence of oil surge, and we pull some serious lateral G's.

I have looked at a lot of very serious drift cars and haven't seen any with a dry sump system. Not saying that there aren't any, just that I haven't seen them.

For your purposes, personally I think dry sumping is an overkill. Get a good winged and baffled sump and use the saved money on other things to improve the competitive performance.:)

Dayna Explorer

Dayna

Posted
  • Author
Posted

taking up boot space wouldn't worry me, i don't use the boot. Its pretty much a drift car, thats road legal.

Well, lets look at some costings that i've come across so far.

To Fix the r32 crank collar issue will cost me $550

for a good oil cooler kit will cost me $550

How much for a baffled sump setup? $400?,

best to make my own? or buy an off the shelf aftermarket one? I don't want to extend the sump lower than it is for ground clearance reasons.

uprated standard placement fit oil pump $1750!! !NEW

TOTAL standard internal option setup = $3250

lets compare to a dry sump setup.

? stage pump complete setup $1500 s/h sourced from USA

oil cooler $250

Adapters (oil filter, remote adapter) $200

Oil Lines $200

obviously would cost a bit more to run lines to the rear of vehicle if i did do this.

sump mods $200 (guessing)

DRY SUMP TOTAL = $2150 + $500 over budget

It seems to me cheaper to sort out a dry sump system, and superior in some ways, i know it seems an over kill, but cost wise, why not?

are you saying i can get away with the standard r32 oil pump? that would save $$$ but still be very close priced to the dry sump setup, and being that the dry sump setup would have better oil pressure etc..

sure money is always an issue and i would like to save hassle and money. but would also like to be cost effect that i am getting the best bang for my buck. and if the dry sump cost a few hundred more, i thought it would make sense to go this way.

A good mechanic friend of mine pointed me towards the dry sump option, as he landed in NZ a complete setup for his V8 drag car for $1200, pump, tank, lines, earl fittings from USA (second hand)

thats the info in front of me at the moment.....

Dayna

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Duncan
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...