Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, figure its time to give the coolant/radiator system a flush and replace with some nice tectaloy 90 :)

Ive looked a few diagrams and used the search but cant find exacly where the drain plug is on the block for an r33 gtst?

Ive been told by most people its not necessary to drain from the block aswell, but seeing this is the first coolant change in about 2 years i want to do it properly

cheers

Hey guys, figure its time to give the coolant/radiator system a flush and replace with some nice tectaloy 90 :P  

Ive looked a few diagrams and used the search but cant find exacly where the drain plug is on the block for an r33 gtst?

Ive been told by most people its not necessary to drain from the block aswell, but seeing this is the first coolant change in about 2 years i want to do it properly

cheers

its on the left side of the block ( pass side ) also you have to turn ignition on and the climate control to highest temp 38 from memory so the coolant drains from the heater core and dont forget to empty the coolant reservoir as well .

you are going to need about 8 lts .

Ive been told by most people its not necessary to drain from the block aswell, but seeing this is the first coolant change in about 2 years i want to do it properly

Wouldnt mind a pic of this.

Isn't it on the bottom of the radiator?

I allways thought it was on the radiator too.But have never used it.Just took the bottom hose off.

Wouldnt mind a pic of this.

I allways thought it was on the radiator too.But have never used it.Just took the bottom hose off.

yes of course there is one in the bottom of the radiator , how else are you going to drain the radietor ? i guess you could take the bottom hose off .

the one on the block is there to drain the block .

thats exacly what i was looking for thanks gordon!

also what exacly do i do with the heater? I drain the radiator and the block then turn the heater on to its highest setting? Im guessing more coolant will come out, and when it stops coming out turn the heater off...

need 8.4L for rb25

Mite make a tutorial with pictures on how to change coolant when i do it today

thats exacly what i was looking for thanks gordon!  

also what exacly do i do with the heater? I drain the radiator and the block then turn the heater on to its highest setting? Im guessing more coolant will come out, and when it stops coming out turn the heater off...

need 8.4L for rb25

Mite make a tutorial with pictures on how to change coolant when i do it today

Good stuff do that..Thats handy to know predator...Do mechanics drain from the block location every time or is it done with the hose as well?

ok well i changed the coolant today

only problem is the drain bolt on the block would not come off! it on there good and i couldnt get any good leverage to get it off. :P

So i did the best to flush as much of the old coolant i could out, but for some reason it only took 5L of new coolant. So obviously there is still 3L in there :)

Not that it makes any difference, but i like to do things right if im going to do it so i kinda feel jipped

Owell, i mite wait for the new coolant to work its way in when the thermostat opens and then do another flush to get the rest of it

Good stuff do that..Thats handy to know predator...Do mechanics drain from the block location every time or is it done with the hose as well?

I'd say many mechanics would be lazy and just do the hose method..

Knore, you might need a breaker bar to get more leverage on the socket.. longer the leaverage the easier to get it off. $20 or so for a cheapie. Anyhow, should be ok - 8L sounds too much to me (i thought it was only 5L too) but wrxhoon would know more than me.

Yeh thats what i figured

The problem is, the bolt is a 14mm, and was kinda worn to begin with so there was never much chance of getting it off

If i moved the dump outta the way it would be easy, but thats alot of work just to flush the coolant ;p

It says in the RB25 manual the radiator capacity is 8.4L, which is probably the entire system including the overflow bottle etc. Either way i did a fair bit of flushing and it only took 5L

Yeh thats what i figured

The problem is, the bolt is a 14mm, and was kinda worn to begin with so there was never much chance of getting it off

If i moved the dump outta the way it would be easy, but thats alot of work just to flush the coolant ;p

It says in the RB25 manual the radiator capacity is 8.4L, which is probably the entire system including the overflow bottle etc. Either way i did a fair bit of flushing and it only took 5L

the bolt on the side of the block is tapered so its always going to be very tight .

if you didnt bleed the air out of the system it will take a bit more when you get it hot and then cool down again .

if you left a couple of litrs of old coolant in there its not so bad , just change it more often or use 50% , i use 33% change it every 2 years but i always emty the block and the heater .

when you change your engine oil you can never get it all out .

yeh thanks wrxhoon

youd think they could put it in a better location :D

now that i know whats involved ill just take the dump off next time

its fairly easy on a gtst , a bit harder on the gtr rb26 ,its a little harder to reinstall .

i wouldnt take the dump out just to do a coolant replacement though , i somehow get the plug off with dump in place , a lot less work .

whatever you do dont crossthread it , its a lot more work then....

i thought that 8litres sound a bit too much as well. But if the manual says that, then i guess theres no arguing. I do PT work at a motor mechanic. It's been a while since i've flushed out the cooling system but i think that we drained from the block, then took the hoses off and flushed out with tap water.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
×
×
  • Create New...