Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just in the process of doing a turbo conversion and have a few Q's...

1) if i install 555cc injectors can i still drive the car with the standard computer or will the computer just go stupid?

2) i have the following parts here and on the way and at home for rb25: hks GT-RS turbo, apexi 555cc injectors, fuel rail, 044 pump, oil catch can, surge tank, power FC, bleed valve (temporary until ebc). I already have a exhaust and dump cooler etc... Can anyone see any thing i will need or any flaws in my setup?

Will make a post in the coming weeks with all the dyno sheets and the rest to show how this turbo works... Thanks...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53179-turbo-setup/
Share on other sites

If it was my car id save my money and not buy the fuel rail, the surge tank, or even the bleed valve. Use the HKS actuator to wind in the boost level you want to run.

I suspect std ECU will crap itself with injectors...the only other things to consider would be perhaps cam gear and the tuner will probably tell you to get a Z32 AFM

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53179-turbo-setup/#findComment-1044733
Share on other sites

i just got a CES split-dump pipe fitted... its a t3 flange so im assuming it will bolt onto the GT-RS perfectly... Also when installing the dump pipe i replaced gaskets on both sides. On the exhaust side i just replaced the gasket and there is now a big gasket leak (you can feel the air rushing out). Am i supposed to use sealer as well as a gasket?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53179-turbo-setup/#findComment-1045940
Share on other sites

i just got a CES split-dump pipe fitted... its a t3 flange so im assuming it will bolt onto the GT-RS perfectly... Also when installing the dump pipe i replaced gaskets on both sides. On the exhaust side i just replaced the gasket and there is now a big gasket leak (you can feel the air rushing out). Am i supposed to use sealer as well as a gasket?

Pop into your local Repco,SupaCheap, Auto One, Auto Pro, AutoBarn and buy some of this

rodi_1812_41531027

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53179-turbo-setup/#findComment-1046414
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...