Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

$4 at car lovers? Man car lovers is DEATH to your paint and the only decent car wash do it yourself ends up costing me $20-30 and that's the self serve that you drive out of at the end and you realise your car isn't clean, its just uniformedly dirty.

I hate car washes. :P

Hmm so what are our numbers looking like- about 6-8 people in 4-5 cars?

Duncan's gone quiet. I hope noone from the main bit of SAU is angry we're having our own thing - I just wanna meet the cefiro brethren for now and I can't make Sunday. My car isn't ready yet to face the liners... when I face the liners I wanna have a gearbox I can shift :D

I just found this little guy ehe ----->> :bananaman

Yeah that's the one I mean ceffo. It's death to your paint and it does the worst job of cleaning.

The DIY detailing tutorial on SAU is the BOMB for cleaning. I'm washing my car with a chamois from now on. I washed it 2 nights ago and it kills it - paint looks so good now.

[ edit: thread- http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=47397 ]

Yeah once you buy all the stuff though you're set. I dono I'm gonna just buy more chamois so I don't have to use a sponge. I don't trust the sponge. Chamois is easier to wash with too but you can never get the soap out so that's why I need a few.

After I buy a few chamois I'm just gonna get the after washer but yeah.. i wanna get my car treated so it doesn't need to be washed, just watered like the fully sick cars :D

I will come although I wont be able to get there untill about 12 I would think maybe later. Have to see how I go and I will bring Russ GTR along as hes immobile atm. I think it was ceffo who left his no at the start of this thread so I will message you and see where you guys are.

I just started a turbo swap yesterday and still havnt got a dump pipe or iol supply line made. looks like i will be busy today.

i will still be there with the car running even if the dump pipe is made from gaffer tape...

Nice one CEF11E.

I had my inlet pipe fall off the turbo yesterday and spent all night fixing it. (well a few hours anyway).

Gonna try to change my gearbox oil today (if i can figure out which bolt needs to come out).

Oh and my CAI pipe fell off on the freeway and into my wheel so I'm going to be downstairs in the carpark after work trying to get that out without getting my suit dirty (UGH WHAT A NIGHTMARE). Oh well .. neoprene it is for me

too_much_boost I think was trying to put in his cams last night also.

We'll all get there!! (and funny you should mention the gaffer tape.. my car is held toegether by zip ties).

hehe new turbo on and almost ready.

I drove 2 suburbs away to an exhaust place with no exhaust at all. just the stock dump pipe!

it sounded like a cross between a v8 and a jet engine. every one was looking at me :P

13 is about right. But yeah I ain't got no radio so if anyone wants to bring me an extra should they have one that'd be nice.

breaker.. breaker.. radio check please there is a bogey on the smokey in the hogie logey...

Notes on channel allocations:

1.  Several channels are set aside for special uses.  These are:

Channel 5       Emergency Channel

Channel 11    Call Channel

Channel 40    Road Channel          

2.  Channels 22 and 23 are used for telemetry and remote control purposed.  The ACA advises that voice communications on these channels is prohibited.

3. Repeaters transmit between channels 1-8 and receive between channels 31 and 38.  Avoid these channels for non-repeater (simplex) communications.   Repeaters operating on Channel 5/35 may be used for emergency communication only.  If you are near the station you are talking to, you should move from the repeater to a simplex channel (see note 5) to leave the repeater free for others who cannot communicate direct.  

4. Though Channel 11 is officially the call channel, most people use repeaters for this purpose instead.  Many truck drivers use Channel 40.  

5.  The following channels are suggested for general simplex communication:  9, 10, 12-21, 23-30, 39.  

turbo done.... yea ha! by seat of the pants dyno its running around 200rwkws at 16psi...

feels really good lag is not noticable and it pulls hard all the way to 7k.

why do i always start this shit just before i really want to use the car?

see you guys there :looney:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...