Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I had a R32 GTR. Use to had hard lower spring on it. I swaped the this set and got a stock shocks with stock springs from just jap. Once I change the just jap one to my car. It had some noise came from the left front shocks or something else which is around the suspension unit, it only happend when the road surface is realli bad, such like very bumping road. I gave the car to Pedders to do the 28 points suspension check. also gave it to powerplay imports to check. They both can't find where is the noise come from. Pedders saying the upper arm bushes worn. Powerplay saying the left upper control arm buggered. Both of them saying driver side loader cu boot have to replace a new one. I dont realli understand all of this. And the just jap shocks and springs are all good. But before the car had lower spring and shocks, it doesn't have that noise at all. I dont know why, realli wanna get rid of these noise. Please help! I am at Sydney, is there anyplace can fix that problem???

its like something when its hit, cant realli explain wha that is. But is that possibly be the Shocks are wron or something else?

Does it sound like metal on metal? I've got a similar noise coming from the frontend if it is. I've had so many people look over it it's not funny. Given the age of the car, it's likely the front subframe bushes are worn out (my rears were like mush) so my mate and I are planning on checking them out.

To create the noise in my car I simply have to raise it on a hoist, lower it back down and then lean on the front. It creates an almighty "crack". I've noticed it when the front suspension is unloaded more than loaded too.

When my car came from Japan it had a ridiculously low ride height, no suspension travel in the Bilstein shocks and was resting on the pitiful excuses for bump-stops. I've since had it raised about 40mm, the Bilsteins rebuilt and swaybars added. It handles beautifully, but damn the noise is embarrassing!

To put it mildly, it's been pi5sing me off for over a year. If we come up with something, I'll let you know. I hope you'll do the same!

Does it sound like metal on metal? I've got a similar noise coming from the frontend if it is. I've had so many people look over it it's not funny. Given the age of the car, it's likely the front subframe bushes are worn out (my rears were like mush) so my mate and I are planning on checking them out.

To create the noise in my car I simply have to raise it on a hoist, lower it back down and then lean on the front. It creates an almighty "crack". I've noticed it when the front suspension is unloaded more than loaded too.

When my car came from Japan it had a ridiculously low ride height, no suspension travel in the Bilstein shocks and was resting on the pitiful excuses for bump-stops. I've since had it raised about 40mm, the Bilsteins rebuilt and swaybars added. It handles beautifully, but damn the noise is embarrassing!

To put it mildly, it's been pi5sing me off for over a year.  If we come up with something, I'll let you know. I hope you'll do the same!

We might had the same problem, but it my one only happen on the left front shocks. all the bushes are very wron, I will change that to the whitline one, see what happen. Thank you for helping. If I find something can fix the noise, I will let u know.

We might had the same problem, but it my one only happen on the left front shocks. all the bushes are very wron, I will change that to the whitline one, see what happen. Thank you for helping. If I find something can fix the noise, I will let u know.

Mine started on the left, then moved to the right. Now I get it from both.

Interestingly, it's less frequent when I have a passenger in the car :confused:

For some of reason, the R32 GTR always had more noise than the R33. My R33 GTST doesnt have any noise inside, but for the R32 GTR, god! Noise all around. Its not that lound as the sound will kill u, but still dont like it. Realli have to find out, I might buy the Tein Street dammper kit from japan and replace the factory one. Give it a try. Realli hate the noise!!!!

This sounds a bit like my 180 was... it made a god awful cracking noise whenever we lowered it onto the ground off the hoist, it was just the spring setting itself back into place around the base of the coilover coz it was sitting loose when we had it up in the air due to the height the coilovers had been adjusted to back in japland. Your problem sounds a bit similar... it used to happened to a few of my older cars because of previous owners cutting the springs.... i would go over any bump at speed and.... CRACK!! :S:S:S

I had a knocking noise coming from the front passanger side, sounded like a shock was stuffed, any time hit a bump itd make a knock/crack noise depending on how big the bump was.

Ended up being the castor bushes, replaced them with whiteline handling kit and never heard it again

I had a knocking noise coming from the front passanger side, sounded like a shock was stuffed, any time hit a bump itd make a knock/crack noise depending on how big the bump was.

Ended up being the castor bushes, replaced them with whiteline handling kit and never heard it again

The Pedders suspension check says the upper arm bushes worn, HP steering gear slight play in steering rack and C.V.Joints D/sider outer boot.

I can't understand these type of things. But they said they have no idea where the noise come from. Anyway, are these things really have to repair or replace immediacy? Any one can help? Is there any good place to fix the suspension things in Sydney? I wanna get rid of these noise.....

I had a noise coming from my front suspension, was soo annoying, spent about $300 on parts trying to fix it, in the end it was just was front strutbrace bolts, on the strutbrace not the top of the shock needed tightening! so make sure u guys check that.

Dave

Pedders saying the upper arm bushes worn.

Powerplay saying the left upper control arm buggered

these two descriptions are of the same thing.

the upper arm bushes ARE the bushes in the left upper control arm .

You have two options if this is the correct diagnosis - replace the bushes in the arm or replace the whole arm.

I just bought 2 upper control arms and they cost me $380 from Nissan + fitting.

replacement bushes with camber adjustment cost around $360 plus fitting into the arm plus fitting arm to car.

You say the car didnt make this noise before on lowered susp but does now on std susp, this could be because the upper arm will now be moving quicker through its range of movements now that is has a softer springs and shocks as opposed to the rock hard after market susp.

The arms will usually squeak as they are getting worn, then they can develop a clunk.

try this test . with car on ground , grab the offending wheel and push and pull hard on top of wheel and listen for clunk (play in top arm bush).

This is what I noticed on my first R32 GTS4.

Stephen

once those bushes are replaced, check to make sure both threads on the top of the shocky are relatively the same amount. Some bearing plates have a flat side circle where the shaft enters, if this has not been located properly...it will make a horrible noise and will damage the shock and bearing plate. Also check the bearing plate for torn or split rubber. Do the swing off wheel idea that GTS4DIEHARD mentioned, this is good. Check also, if the upper bush does not move get someone else to do it and try to feel the shaft of the shocky while is is being done. There should be no sideways movement. Check the bearing plates when you bounce on the front of the car (the bearing plate is at the very top of the shocky which bolts into your tower) they should remain in basically the same position.

With the bush replacement...I would love to help you out, I can buy the kits for under $100 and would fit them for $100, but I'm in Brisbane and I aint drivin to Sydney to install them for ya.

Also, get the CV boot fixed...it should only cost you about $30-$40 plus half hour labour.

Don't let them tell you that they gotta put a special nissan one on either. Just tell them to fit a 1CVBK, this is a universal CV boot and it will be good. If you let this go for too long, the grease will spray out everywhere and the CV will dry up. This will destroy the CV. As with the upper control arm bushes, are they the inner bush or the main upper bush? either or it doesn't really matter. Don't let them charge you any more than 1 hour per side for the inner bushes. If it is the main upper bush, don't let them charge you any more than half an hour a side.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...