Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

Have alot of standard + Performance parts i dont need:

Here we go::::::::::

- GTR CRANK $350ono SOLD

-GTR CONRODS $350ono SOLD

- GTR PISTONS $250

-GTR OIL PUMP $150ono

-GTR WATER PUMP $50firm

-GTR R33 AFTERMARKET USED 500hp Clutch

Used only 20-25km's... As new plenty of meat left...Single plate, Ceramic...Use is like a brass button clutch...Bought from ADVAN MAKE OFFER$$$$$

-GTR R32 USED OS GIKEN Clutch,

Came out due to engine build etc...Although i noticed slipping in 3rd/4th gears on a 400kw@Wheels GTR..may need rebuild Make OFFER$$$$$

-Trust T88-34D $1800

Travelled 1000km's in Japan...Polished Compressor housing...No surface rust in rear housing like used ones get....

-PAR BILLET CONRODS (RB26)

BRAND NEW In box....PAID $1850 will sell for $1650

More info can be seen at : www.par-engineering.com

-ARIAS PISTONS + Ring Kit (RB26)

BRAND NEW IN BOX..Paid $1550 will sell for $1350

Bore size is 86.5mm...Detailed Specs can be giving if interested...

-STANDARD GTR INJECTORS $400 Travelled 30,000km's SOLD

- Auto Staff Up pipes $300firm

Twin 2 1/2'' pipes into a 3'' Pipe before the cat...

-Blitz Pod filter $200

-Nismo Fuel Press Reg $100ono SOLD

-Standard gtr r33 BOV (30,000km's) $180firm SOLD

contact me via PM or in the thread.....

PARTS NEED TO GO SO MAKE OFFERS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53576-gtr-crankrodspistonsclutchsetc-etc/
Share on other sites

500HP clutch for the GTR R33 Comes with the flywheel...In its condition i would be looking for around $650ono

OS GIKEN is a twin plate clutch and will bolt straight onto your gtr r32...Comes with the matching fly wheel...I must tell you clutch was slipping on a 400kw@wheels gtr...So the plates may need to be replaced...looking for around $500ono

Let me know

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...