Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well for the last few weeks recently i've been getting alot of ticking from my motor, espec when cold. Took it to my local mechanic who confirmed my suspision that the lifters were buggered, or possibly something else in the head.

Well anyway i've now got myself some more lifters and just curious of the process to replace/ change them over????

i know i gotta remove the rocker covers, then those upside down hoop things with the bolts in them, (can't remember name of them). From that take the old lifters out? bleed new ones? (using wire or somethign in bucket of oil?) and put them in and everythign else back together and thats it? or is there more???

if someones done this before, some help and advice would be much appreciated.

cheers

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54258-how-to-change-lifters/
Share on other sites

I haven't done this but you'll have to remove the camshafts which means timing belt, harmonic balancer etc.

Pretty big job.

Am thinking about doing this myself one day soon too so have looked into it a fair bit.

Might be worth trying an engine flush before you pull it to bits.

What oil are you using? Sometimes when you change brands you get lifter noises until you've done a few oil changes.

Just wondering where you got the new lifters and for how much?

Good luck anyway!

yeah it is actually a pretty big task. just spoke to my mate who knows a fair bit about mechanics. basically harmonic balancer, timing belt, cams all need to be removed. which in that case cos the difficulty getting the harmonic balancer off, its easier to remove the radiator aswel. so yeah u were right on that gtst25.

hmm i'm just summing up if i want to tackle the task with my mates or take it to a workshop.

well i've done a engine oil flush already which made a small difference awhile back and also put alot thicker oil in, but now have decieded just to replace them. Actually found a ripper deal and got a near bare head with all 24 good condition lifters still in it. Thanks Meggala!! Was gonna get new ones till i found out the price of them.

i was also looking into cleaning (well seeing if i can clean them, would only change them if i know which ones are the noisy ones) my lifters sometime over the summer. but just recently the engine developed a noisier rattle, it may be lifters (just really loud) or might be something else? ive had noisy lifters for a while.

heres a recording of the sound. the lifter noise at idle is just a tad too soft to clearly hear, but this other noise is there.

http://users.bigpond.net.au/newkleer/engineshort.mp3 (400kb, or engine.mp3 (720kb) for longer version)

any idea what it could be?

thanks in advance

Dude my gemini had that sound and i never got it fixed in the end the motor shut down...I dont know exactly what it is...The initial sound is all rb on startup but that sound on rev is exreemly sus to me.

Is that a gudjon pin sound anyone.Or a conrod pin loosening.

sorry to hear. hoping my engine doesnt have the same fate!

will hopefull have time on/after the weekend to take the rocket covers off and see if anything is obviously damaged.

how did u determine it was a cylinder? (would a compression test work? might be able to get my brother to bring home a kit from work to test over weekend) or more specifically, how did u determine it wasnt the lifters?

to tell the truth, i took the car to the mechanics to get another set of lifters put in, although i asked for them to double check it was actually the lifters before they start pulling things apart, and anyway to cut it short, an hour later of friggen (i wasn't there so dunno what tests they ran, but i'm guessin compression test would be a start, plus some sorta thing to see where sound is coming from, eg block of wood or one of those tethascope things that docs have) they determined it was coming from cylinder one and defenitly in the block which they believe is a problem with the piston in cycliner one. They never actually got around to looking at the lifters afterall cept that the noise wasn't coming from them so must be alright.

sounds like a gudjon pin.Let us know what it is.

whats a gudjon pin? i've heard of it a few times but got no idea where or what it does....

yeah well i was actually trying to sell car b4 this problem arose, so i'll see how it pans out otherwise i'll be keeping it as a project car and rip the motor out at end of november at which time i'll have a look for this gudjon pin then...hmmm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...