Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys..

well, i was driving around today, cool weather, i looked at the pressure gauge and it was around the 2 mark.. , mins later, i thought id hit it in 3rd gear, and for some reason, i glanced at the pressure gauge again...

it was reaching the 7 mark!!! wtf???

i slow down, and its back to around 3 mark

it never reached that high b4.. and am getting really worried...

does any one knows what it means??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54289-weird-oil-pressure/
Share on other sites

Don't rely on the factory gauge for absolute values, it is only a guide. Your varying readings could be due to electronic 'glitches' (eg corroded/poor/loose electrical connections ) or a fault in the gauge or sender.

Best thing to do if your concerned is get hold of an accurate (preferable calibrated) mechanical OP gauge and do some tests using that. The gauge could be plumbed in at the oil pressure sender using a 'T' adaptor.

SteveL, thanx for the replay..

but just for the sake of it, lets assume i already have an accurate after market gauge, what would this high reading indicate??

Oil pressure in RB's is controlled by the by-pass spring (and plunger) in the oil pump. It's possible the plunger is sticking, but to check requires removing the sump, but would be unusual.

You say it was cold....but was the engine cold ??, and what grade oil are you using ??

Ever since ive had my GTR the oil pressure on cold sits on 8 (standard gauge) and by the time its warm it drops down to just under 6. Haven't been bothered enough to put an aftermarket gauge on to check it out yet.. Everythings fine though

my aftermarket gauge is funny to, when i start my car up its at about 7, and after i drive it stays at about 4, then hen i boos it goes to 7 and at full boost it drops down to about 2, stupid gasuges dont know whats happening here.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...