Jump to content
SAU Community

turbo to fit straight into r33

bazr33

By bazr33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

bazr33 Mentor

bazr33

Posted
Posted

hey guys hows it goin!

just wanting to know what decent size turbo

fits straight into a r33 gtst 1994

i have heard a mate sayin that the gt28 and the 30

fits straight in bolt to bolt

also, wantin to know where to go in brisbane to get a good price on one

ppl out there that have starteed from stock state and turned into a street machine

any problems that have taken part through the process and what horsepower ya pullin

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54354-turbo-to-fit-straight-into-r33/
Share on other sites
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi bazr33, I have yet to find an aftermarket turbo that bolts up, I have had to fabricate/buy stuff every time. That's why I use lots of the GCG ball bearing hi flow R33 GTST/R34 GTT turbos, now they bolt straight on, no mods or stuff to make or buy. I strongly suggest you do a search, there is plenty of info:cheers:

Trust33 Grand Master

Trust33

Posted
Posted
HKS 25** series do bolt straight on with a T3 flange.  Although you will be up for new oil and water lines which im scrambling up at the moment

Do those turbos bolt back up to the stock dump pipe as well?Or is it only the oil and water lines that dont line up.

tang0 Proficient

tang0

Posted
Posted

its pointless statement really .. i have a high flow dump pipe, and its exactly teh same bolt pattern as the standard dump pipe, so high flow dump, or standard it makes no difference .. it;ll bolt straight on ....

no meaning to flame here, but just pointing out they are the same ..

personally i'm going down the router of a GCG high flow. ... as soon as I have time to get over there and pick one up that is ...

Robo's Mentor

Robo's

Posted
Posted
Isnt that a bit of a waste though? if you have a HKS GT25 turbo and still use the standard dump pipe? how much power do you lose?

What about the inlet piping and compressor outlet piping? how do they bolt up?

Yes will be a waste, certainly that will be your restricting point.

Inlet piping is the same, outlet piping is slightly different, you have to get a 90 degree turn, I got the HKS one, its alot better flowing than the stocker.

Robo's Mentor

Robo's

Posted
Posted
I would be going the HKS 2540. If you get the kit it comes with everything needed to bolt including the coolant lines. My mates r33 gts-t has run a 12.3 with one of these turbo's on a dead stock motor.

Nice time, it all depends on the driver, someone on here has done a 12.5 with a 2530, your mate has done a 12.3 with a 2540 which is awesome, but then i know someone has done a 13.4 with a 2535. And then ive done a 12.9 with a stocker.

Well it shows the true potential of each, certainly the 2535 has more left in it.

lukits01 Experienced

lukits01

Posted
Posted
Inlet piping is the same, outlet piping is slightly different, you have to get a 90 degree turn, I got the HKS one, its alot better flowing than the stocker.

About the 90deg return piping, is there a way to stick with the stock one? or do we need to fabricate a new one?

Oh and does anyone know what kind of restriction in terms of power the stock dump pipe is?

Robo's Mentor

Robo's

Posted
Posted
About the 90deg return piping, is there a way to stick with the stock one? or do we need to fabricate a new one?

Oh and does anyone know what kind of restriction in terms of power the stock dump pipe is?

You could possibly just buy a 90 degree hose instead.

Dizzo Apprentice

Dizzo

Posted
Posted
Nice time, it all depends on the driver, someone on here has done a 12.5 with a 2530, your mate has done a 12.3 with a 2540 which is awesome, but then i know someone has done a 13.4 with a 2535.  And then ive done a 12.9 with a stocker.

Well it shows the true potential of each, certainly the 2535 has more left in it.

Off topic, question for the people with 12.3, 12.5 and 12.9[stock]...

Do any of you beat gtir's? I'm not talking about a rolling run, I mean at traffic lights(provided its safe)?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...