Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i reply to you cos no-one has one or any experience with it.

i didn't want to fork over money just for a simple plug and play procedure.

my daily driving is @0.7bar ~10.2psi otb @ratio of 30% or 13.3psi as the profec a has a tendency to spike whilst the B version is a better unit but I'm not complaining. Much better torque in midrange and overall response than my bleed valve @12psi.

offset is if you want to align the profec a boost reading with a boost gauge as per manual. Not much use for me.

have you connected all your hoses up?

cheers

nathan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5472-profec-a-wiring/#findComment-84242
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I only just got back from my first run after fitting the profec A. Like yourself I cant get it to go to P1 mode on its own. It goes straight to normal operation. However i did the alternate mode as per info from Greddy site. After power is on hold down power button for 5sec and you get P1 do what you have to and push button twice for P2. After only a quick tune the boost seems a little unstable. In lower gears at 1bar it reaches 10psi (4psi short) and reaches the required 14psi in 3rd and 4th.

I have two questions for you.

1 - Did you leave the back nipple with no hose to atmosphere?

2 - What pwr supply did you use? I connected to accessories which is anoying as the solenoid operates when accessories are on. I need a ignition supply. I thought of the pwr window supply. Also how did you earth it? To chasy, batt, or a nearby earth to something else.

Let me know how stable you get your boost any any tricks you discover. I am off for a good drive tomorrow. I will see how I go.

Hope this helps!!

Greg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5472-profec-a-wiring/#findComment-104534
Share on other sites

I will try the manual way to set it up but I thought it best to do it the normal way(whatever that is no-one knows apprently!!!!). I left the back hose free(once again the manual say's nothing about it). Pull the cigarette lighter out and use the PWR and Earth from that, its ignition pwr and would probably work better in the long run, in case you sit in the car using acc for the stereo etc.

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5472-profec-a-wiring/#findComment-105215
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...