Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a friend with a nicely modded GTiR (exhaust, intercooler, boost controller, chipped ecu) and he hasnt had any problems with it (except for one gearbox breakage). Hes had the car for over 2 years now. It does drink petrol like crazy though, and Ive heard the same from other owners...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1071731
Share on other sites

I've since sold the GTiR and moved onto the GTR

The GTiR didn't have many problems, just CVs and rear diff

Still looking at sky high insurance costs, costs of parts combination of expensive uncommon things and common pulsar parts. Big theft target too, mine was stolen from new owner ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1071759
Share on other sites

My options are to either buy a pulsar gtir and add a full whiteline handling kit, hks gtrs, FMIC, exhaust and super sequential BOV and a bit of rice. (mags). Or, have a stock standard r32 gtr.

Now, which should i go for? in a race who do you think would win? If i had the gtir with those mods, what power and quarter times am i looking at? Thanks for your help huys

Regards

Chris

CSV Imports

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1073050
Share on other sites

To be honest I can still hardly afford the upkeep of a GTR even with the money I have coming in. I know I couldnt when I was 18 thats for sure. Those mods would get a GTiR into the 12s no doubt but you're missing alot of essential parts to make it move quicker.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1073063
Share on other sites

Thanks alot morgs, those were just my basic mods, th ones that I can afford now. Once I sell my excel (dont laugh, my folks bought it for me), the money should be good for an OS Giken gear set. I also plan to get a Power FC, sard 1000cc injectors, new nismo front diff, DBA brakes, or a brake urgrade to r33 gtr brakes some more rice, Audio and lots of other things.

Is there anything else I need? My engineer said I wouldnt have to resport to forgies yet but it would be advisable. so I spose I better add that to the list of Mods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1073075
Share on other sites

Definately need to put more thought into it

Dont bother with anything from Japan GTiR is an old car most of the stuff isnt still made or cheap - get a half PAR dog box (straight cut gears) or similar, it'll be expensive noisy and unfriendly but won't break.

On the ECU side maybe look for something with antilag and launch control, hell they were rally cars, autronic would be good value for money. Wont need 1000cc injectors unless you're aiming for 1000hp :D Brake upgrade GTR brakes will fit from memory but you'll need a set of 17s to fit them.

Depends on how much power you want. GTiR SR20 is a good motor personally I wouldn't touch it unless I had to long as the compression is fine, just need to upgrade fuel IC oil cooler and it'll live through a fair bit of punishment. Dont forget the drivetrain.

Either way you've got potential to put yourself through a fair bit of financial pain.

A 4 door GTS4 on the other hand.... :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1073085
Share on other sites

Yea my gts4 sedan has put a dent in my pocket. Yea I heard about some dog box from some where which was aparantly extreamy hardy, will get back to you on that one... The gtir comes out wiht 440cc right? so what do you recommend? 660cc? Yes i will have 17s so gtr brakes should be okay, and the whiteline kit to correct the understeer... SO what cpu is it that you reccomend? Now it sounds to me as though you dont exactly like the gtir engine that much, any reasons? Are you pointing me in the direction of the gtr? What made you change? If I can get myself a clean RELIABLE gtir into the 12s without too much of a hassle than I will be happy!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1073095
Share on other sites

If you only want 12s its too easy.

Dogbox PPG is another one...

IF you wanted 12s, get a full exhaust (decent dump pipe is important), EBC (1 bar), decent intake cold air/pod filter, and a tune. That should give you enough power to run 12s all day. I know guys who run low 12s on the standard 14" wheels/tyres with that combo, freaky quick. All you need is a huge launch. Can kill boxes but how often would you do it...

GTiR motor is good SR. I went to GTR because it was the car I've always wanted and I found one which stood out so I had to have it. Still paying the price lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54847-pulsar-gti-r/#findComment-1073101
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...