RB20 budget 200KW? recipe

[yogi000]

i'd say ~5k is pretty damn good

[Oblivion]

I am running stock atm...with front mount and mine spikes at .7 bar, and i am gettin the zorst on, and EBC, and dyno tune and remap soon. So that should make it 150- 170 running 13psi i hope

[Psymon]

is it normal for the rb25 sII turbo compressor outlet flange to be different from the rb20 flange? it makes me cry. I swear all t3 flanged turbo are supposed to have a generic t3 flange on them. anyone else have this flange problem?

also god damn rb motors and their stupid water lines for their turbos !!

[patto1234]

I'm running

r34 gtt turbo

Trust FMIC

Trust Pod

Walbro fuel pump

EBC - 10psi and 13psi

2.5 inch turbo back exhaust

chipped/remapped ecu

I've gotten 185kw at 13psi.

I wanna get at least 200kw as well and am planning on getting some GTR injectors as my current ones are maxing out and the duty cycle is off the chart.

What other mods should i be looking at doing to support 200kw with the current set up??

[DJRIFT]

well id like to enter into this toppic as i would like 200+ but am not sure on the best setup. i have been writing up my own spread sheet on everyones dyno posts in the RB20 dyno section so that i can see what i need to achive 200+. i have only managed to get throught about the first 2 pages but i am seeing a very good consistancy in power V mods.

RB25 turbo: there isnt a huge amount that ive sampled in my spread sheets yet but non of them have managed 200rwkw. i am not saying that they cant but even with all the extra bits 200 is a bit of a limit. you could then go on to hiflow the 25 turbo later down the track when you need/want more power but i have been hearing average reviews of high flows. plus i think a high flow 25 turbo on a 20 equals a bit more lag but that could be fixed with cam gears (proven fact).

HKS or alike: a lot of the cars first sampled are running HKS 2530s or td06 turbos or alike which manage to crack the 200 mark easily enough with low boost but id like to know what lag is like. ( i should start to understand how to read dyno sheets for that info). they have more than likely come from japan like they are so the owneres havent listed all mods like injectors which makes it hard to have perfect data. id also like to add that these kits (HKS) are worth big $$$ so would it be worth it just to crack the 200 mark?

engine management: one third of these cars sampled are running power FCs which more than likely come from japan in that way. one third run a tuned rom or after market ecu and the remaning third run standard comp. in my setup i was going straight for a power FC but now im probably going to go for a haltech as i can buy one cheaper than a power FC and i can install it myself cheaper than buying a power FC. i know PFCs can be had for as little as $1000 now but im pretty sure that it needs to be modded to suit an rb20 so i think that bumps them upo to $1500. also with an aftermarket setup there is no need for an air flow meter so the added cost of a Z32 meter can be put towards the ECU cost. diferent injectors and coil setups can also be run easier from this setup. i may be wrong about that because i have limmeted knolage about PFCs so thats why a haltech would be better for me. cheaper and i know it.

injectors: about a third of people run GTR injectors. great value for money at around $300 plus cleaning and flow testing and im pretty sure they will flow up to 300rwkw so they should have plenty of flow. around a quarter run other aftermarket injectors with the remainders running no upgrade wich is where you always get stuch on a tune. run out off fuel at the top end.

exhaust pod and intercooler: pretty much no one is without these. exhaust should be around 3"+ for good flow. a good pod or pannel filter and if you have a pod put it in a sealed up air box as it will make a diference. i am about to go for the apexi power intake for around the $100 new as they have been proven to provide smooth airflow with great filtration and the biggest improvement in kw rating over all others. i think the better the intercooler the better improvement you will get at the end of the day. i am on a buget so i have gone for the GTR factory cooler with custom pipe work done by me to come up to a ruff total of $400 instaled and a great bang for buck option.

ignition: i was suprised to see that only a few people are running spitfire coil packs wit the rest just standard. spitfire ones are ment to make a few kilowat increase but for the $600 for a set its a fir price to pay.

well that as much as i think i can add for now and if you have taken the time to read this post than i hope you have learnt somthing usefull from it. also if there is somthing that i am totaly rong about just tell me and i will change it. i may also be a good option to read throught the dyno results for your self if you are undecided on what to do.

but after all of this i myself an still on the fence on weather or not just to chuck a RB25 in or mod up the 20. either way i wont see much change out of $5000 and will probably end up with the same result. any coments on RB20 Vs 25 would be good.

damo

sorry i dugg up an old thread but i felt it was very relivent and saved me starting another one.

Edited December 5, 2006 by DJRIFT

[The Dan]

any coments on RB20 Vs 25 would be good.

Yeah, the 20 is stronger and will rev higher.

You don't need much to get to 200rwkw.

RB25 turbo, cold air intake (not just a pod), exhaust, FMIC, remap ECU

You could budget around $4500 including labour to do the whole lot.

There are some other bits and pieces you can add to the mix to improve the package. Things like fuel pump. I don't care if the old one is working fine...put a new one in. For $300 it's worth the peace of mind considering around 7/10 RB engine failures are fuel related.

Cheers, Daniel.

[BAMR33]

how old is this thread

[The Dan]

how old is this thread

Does it matter?

[RB20JT]

what is this apexi power intake for around $100? do have any pics of this? or links? i need sumthing desperatley as my pod is just sitting there sucking up SHIAT HOT AIR!!

THANKS GUYS

well id like to enter into this toppic as i would like 200+ but am not sure on the best setup. i have been writing up my own spread sheet on everyones dyno posts in the RB20 dyno section so that i can see what i need to achive 200+. i have only managed to get throught about the first 2 pages but i am seeing a very good consistancy in power V mods.

RB25 turbo: there isnt a huge amount that ive sampled in my spread sheets yet but non of them have managed 200rwkw. i am not saying that they cant but even with all the extra bits 200 is a bit of a limit. you could then go on to hiflow the 25 turbo later down the track when you need/want more power but i have been hearing average reviews of high flows. plus i think a high flow 25 turbo on a 20 equals a bit more lag but that could be fixed with cam gears (proven fact).

HKS or alike: a lot of the cars first sampled are running HKS 2530s or td06 turbos or alike which manage to crack the 200 mark easily enough with low boost but id like to know what lag is like. ( i should start to understand how to read dyno sheets for that info). they have more than likely come from japan like they are so the owneres havent listed all mods like injectors which makes it hard to have perfect data. id also like to add that these kits (HKS) are worth big $$$ so would it be worth it just to crack the 200 mark?

engine management: one third of these cars sampled are running power FCs which more than likely come from japan in that way. one third run a tuned rom or after market ecu and the remaning third run standard comp. in my setup i was going straight for a power FC but now im probably going to go for a haltech as i can buy one cheaper than a power FC and i can install it myself cheaper than buying a power FC. i know PFCs can be had for as little as $1000 now but im pretty sure that it needs to be modded to suit an rb20 so i think that bumps them upo to $1500. also with an aftermarket setup there is no need for an air flow meter so the added cost of a Z32 meter can be put towards the ECU cost. diferent injectors and coil setups can also be run easier from this setup. i may be wrong about that because i have limmeted knolage about PFCs so thats why a haltech would be better for me. cheaper and i know it.

injectors: about a third of people run GTR injectors. great value for money at around $300 plus cleaning and flow testing and im pretty sure they will flow up to 300rwkw so they should have plenty of flow. around a quarter run other aftermarket injectors with the remainders running no upgrade wich is where you always get stuch on a tune. run out off fuel at the top end.

exhaust pod and intercooler: pretty much no one is without these. exhaust should be around 3"+ for good flow. a good pod or pannel filter and if you have a pod put it in a sealed up air box as it will make a diference. i am about to go for the apexi power intake for around the $100 new as they have been proven to provide smooth airflow with great filtration and the biggest improvement in kw rating over all others. i think the better the intercooler the better improvement you will get at the end of the day. i am on a buget so i have gone for the GTR factory cooler with custom pipe work done by me to come up to a ruff total of $400 instaled and a great bang for buck option.

ignition: i was suprised to see that only a few people are running spitfire coil packs wit the rest just standard. spitfire ones are ment to make a few kilowat increase but for the $600 for a set its a fir price to pay.

well that as much as i think i can add for now and if you have taken the time to read this post than i hope you have learnt somthing usefull from it. also if there is somthing that i am totaly rong about just tell me and i will change it. i may also be a good option to read throught the dyno results for your self if you are undecided on what to do.

but after all of this i myself an still on the fence on weather or not just to chuck a RB25 in or mod up the 20. either way i wont see much change out of $5000 and will probably end up with the same result. any coments on RB20 Vs 25 would be good.

damo

sorry i dugg up an old thread but i felt it was very relivent and saved me starting another one.

[RB20JT]

DJRIFT....would it be possible for you to PM me about this intake? thanks!

[The Dan]

An Apexi power intake is not going to solve your hot air problem. You will need to build a decent cold air box or cold air intake.

The power intake is just a filter and adaptor...nothing special. And as for smoother and better filtration...try a $40 DRIFT brand urethane pod as they have been proven to filter better and flow more than all of the leading manufacturers including HKS and APEXi.

[Raul]

3lit3z_32, where and when and how was that air filter test done? Thats the first i have heard of thoe filters actually working!

Cheers

[DJRIFT]

well i was going to say about the drift filter as it got the hightest peak power out put over all other top brands K&N hks ect. this was done in zoom magazine. but in that zoom magazine they actualy didnt test for filtration, just power out put. i was then told about a a test done on a website where dyno runs and so on were proformed as well as a filtration test. apexi was the best on that one in both peak power and filtration. some bad news fo HKS thoe as there filters dont stop much at all, maybe a small child.

[Dale FZ1]

Here is some sort of comparison; it doesn't actually indicate what size their secondary filter was, but visually it gave some sort of indicator.

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

FWIW, I'm running a HKS branded stainless mesh pod looks the same as the Blitz. Wasn't entirely happy with not knowing how well it worked. I got a K&N Filtercharger - a fabric over-bag that fits like a shower cap. Ran a dusty motorkhana on grass/dirt and there was no sign of dust ingress into the inlet trunking. Best thing was I could use warm soapy water to wash out both the filter and overbag.

[45ULT]

2nd hand 3"Turboback exhaust with new Hiflow cat - Yep

Turbo VG30DET/RB25 ballbearing? (Bolt on?) Rebuild/mods? - Rb25 will get close, vg30 is too laggy

R33 GTR or hybrid intercooler diy piping - yep

440cc GTR injectors (cleaned/tested) and resistor pack - Don't need em

Z32 AFM -Don't need it

Fuel pump?(new one) model no.? - Don't need it

Cams? - Might get you closer to 200rwkw but $$

RB25/26 crank and rods? - Don't need em

Boost control? w/gate actuator? EBC - Any good ebc will do.

ECU?(I guess reprogramming wouldn't be up to it) - Remap will do

I make 180 - 190rwkw on my r32 with

rb25 turbo @14psi

Big turbo back hks super dragger zorst/dump

hybrid fmic

Blitz sbc iD II

Chip remap

Pod

You won't get 200rwkw with a rb25 turbo unless your real lucky. I'd save some money for a good clutch too and maybe some reserves for another gearbox, ive already busted one. You would only need bigger injectors, pump etc if you go for a 2530 turbo IMO.

this is weird cause i made 190kw on the standard rb20 turbo on 14psi with standard turbo, injectors, computer, 3 inch exhaust and front mount. wonder wat i'd get with a rb25 turbo or vg30?????

[johnGTS-t]

Ive cracked the 200kw (202) 270bhp at the wheels, mark with mine.

i have a chipped ECU by Dr Drift

3'' exhuast

fmic

oil cooler

rb20 turbo inlarged with steel wheels at 16.5psi

jjr coil packs

040 fuel pump

pod filter

i might win a race or two now!!!!!

ive been racing with 158kw (211bhp)

Edited February 16, 2008 by johnGTS-t

[DJRIFT]

well id like to enter into this toppic as i would like 200+ but am not sure on the best setup. i have been writing up my own spread sheet on everyones dyno posts in the RB20 dyno section so that i can see what i need to achive 200+. i have only managed to get throught about the first 2 pages but i am seeing a very good consistancy in power V mods.

RB25 turbo: there isnt a huge amount that ive sampled in my spread sheets yet but non of them have managed 200rwkw. i am not saying that they cant but even with all the extra bits 200 is a bit of a limit. you could then go on to hiflow the 25 turbo later down the track when you need/want more power but i have been hearing average reviews of high flows. plus i think a high flow 25 turbo on a 20 equals a bit more lag but that could be fixed with cam gears (proven fact).

HKS or alike: a lot of the cars first sampled are running HKS 2530s or td06 turbos or alike which manage to crack the 200 mark easily enough with low boost but id like to know what lag is like. ( i should start to understand how to read dyno sheets for that info). they have more than likely come from japan like they are so the owneres havent listed all mods like injectors which makes it hard to have perfect data. id also like to add that these kits (HKS) are worth big $$$ so would it be worth it just to crack the 200 mark?

engine management: one third of these cars sampled are running power FCs which more than likely come from japan in that way. one third run a tuned rom or after market ecu and the remaning third run standard comp. in my setup i was going straight for a power FC but now im probably going to go for a haltech as i can buy one cheaper than a power FC and i can install it myself cheaper than buying a power FC. i know PFCs can be had for as little as $1000 now but im pretty sure that it needs to be modded to suit an rb20 so i think that bumps them upo to $1500. also with an aftermarket setup there is no need for an air flow meter so the added cost of a Z32 meter can be put towards the ECU cost. diferent injectors and coil setups can also be run easier from this setup. i may be wrong about that because i have limmeted knolage about PFCs so thats why a haltech would be better for me. cheaper and i know it.

injectors: about a third of people run GTR injectors. great value for money at around $300 plus cleaning and flow testing and im pretty sure they will flow up to 300rwkw so they should have plenty of flow. around a quarter run other aftermarket injectors with the remainders running no upgrade wich is where you always get stuch on a tune. run out off fuel at the top end.

exhaust pod and intercooler: pretty much no one is without these. exhaust should be around 3"+ for good flow. a good pod or pannel filter and if you have a pod put it in a sealed up air box as it will make a diference. i am about to go for the apexi power intake for around the $100 new as they have been proven to provide smooth airflow with great filtration and the biggest improvement in kw rating over all others. i think the better the intercooler the better improvement you will get at the end of the day. i am on a buget so i have gone for the GTR factory cooler with custom pipe work done by me to come up to a ruff total of $400 instaled and a great bang for buck option.

ignition: i was suprised to see that only a few people are running spitfire coil packs wit the rest just standard. spitfire ones are ment to make a few kilowat increase but for the $600 for a set its a fir price to pay.

well that as much as i think i can add for now and if you have taken the time to read this post than i hope you have learnt somthing usefull from it. also if there is somthing that i am totaly rong about just tell me and i will change it. i may also be a good option to read throught the dyno results for your self if you are undecided on what to do.

but after all of this i myself an still on the fence on weather or not just to chuck a RB25 in or mod up the 20. either way i wont see much change out of $5000 and will probably end up with the same result. any coments on RB20 Vs 25 would be good.

damo

sorry i dugg up an old thread but i felt it was very relivent and saved me starting another one.

just to update on this. i ended up going for a r33 halfcut as i needed to factor in a manual conversion. that cost me around 5g on a budget with a new clutch and front mount plumbed up and all. if i was to do it again i would go the rb25 again. if i had a manual r32 i would get just an auto halfcut or just a long motor. rb25s are cheap as now and if you look through a few rb25 posts just a simple remap and mild mods can net you 200rwkw and tthen there is heaps of room to move.

my car actualy got stolen only 6 weeks after completion but i have another r32 now. it was had an rb25 de in it so now its rb25 de+t haha. i am trating this the same as i would an rb20 thoe and i have now gone a GTR power FC and gtr injectors but i dont reccomend doing this after it adding up the costs. 300 injectors, 120 cleaning, 150 gtr resistor pack, 60 new plugs to suit injectors.

Ive cracked the 200kw (202) 270bhp at the wheels, mark with mine.

i have a chipped ECU by Dr Drift

3'' exhuast

fmic

oil cooler

rb20 turbo inlarged with steel wheels at 16.5psi

jjr coil packs

040 fuel pump

pod filter

i might win a race or two now!!!!!

ive been racing with 158kw (211bhp)

thats grate news john. the extra boost by the turbo would help that figure. thats what limits rb25 turbos one rb20s. they need more boost and will love it.

[johnGTS-t]

thats grate news john. the extra boost by the turbo would help that figure. thats what limits rb25 turbos one rb20s. they need more boost and will love it.

now all i have to do is learn to drive it again with more power and no Hicas (ive just got rid of that too).

on the way home from Pro Automotive i gave it a little kick and it was like someone shot me out of a cannon!!! (a sideways one)

i just hope it WAS on the 16.5psi setting and not the 14 LOL

JBR

[jaychen]

TOP THREAD . answered every question i wanted to ask about anything to do with my skyline making roughly 200rwkw. you guys know your shit in and out. much appreciated guys, many more people like me will benefit. don't close this thread even if it is old. thanks again guys.

[nisskid]

RB25 turbo - $300

Bosch 040 - $200

3" Turbo back Exhaust - $500 (for my original 2nd hand exhaust, my new one: $1300ish)

FMIC - $400

Remapped ECU - $500

Total: around $2000

183rwkw @ 12psi

with leaner A:F and higher boost could get up near the 195mark.