Jump to content
SAU Community

Ticking sound From the Turbo side of the engine

Kaido_RR

By Kaido_RR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted

hey,

Today my car started making a ticking sound (loud, very audioable when driving) from the turbo side of the engine. It happen when on gas, fast, slow whenever i am on the gas i hear the sound, also if i put the foot down and go up into the rev range it sounds like its getting faster. It doesnt do it on idle, thou if i rev it it sounds to only make it around the 3/4000 rpm mark (the same spot my bov starts going off)

Now with all this in mind, on monday, my Oil line from my turbo to engine blow (was rubber not metal -- dont ask me) now i lost 4L of oil, my mech replace the line with a stock metal rb line, refill with oil and the car was given the OK that everything was working

Now from my limited knownage, i think it might be the turbo, its boosting fine and making power but it sounds like the ticking is related to the spinning of the turbo wheel (guess?)

I will have the car check out on monday (or maybe 2morrow), But if i cant get it in 2morrow it will wreak my head in untill monday can anyone help

thanks mike :D

iBd14U Enthusiast

iBd14U

Posted
Posted

Hey

I've had the same problem with my car. Does you car have a full exhaust system? This normally happens when you have a cat-back exhaust. You build too much pressure and you blow out one of the gaskets. So as you rev higher you can hear it louder as it is leaking more air. Try getting an exhaust specialist out. Are you in sydney? Give me a yell if you are! Got someone that can help!

Phil

iBd14U Enthusiast

iBd14U

Posted
Posted

Yeah most likely its gonna be the one of the gaskets. I've blown one before and in the verge of blowing another one. Just get your car checked out by an exhaust specialist. It should cost around $300 mark. If you know the guy you might get it cheaper!

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

If it was the turbo it would be a very fast noise, almost a buzzing but if it is a ticking and you lost that much oil I'm considering a big end bearing. Get it checked fast and don't drive it unless you have to. The bearing and journal can sieze causing a conrod to snap which will destroy your engine.

Sorry if it sounds over the top but it isn't worth destroying an engine. I had one in mine and the ticking/tapping noise was quite loud in the garage and seemed louder on the left side.

Drop the oil and look for golden coloured metal specs and flakes. If they are there a bearing is going. In that case a rebuild is needed, probably with a crank and conrod big end grind. Sorry to say will be expensive if it is but you get to rebuild a decent engine that will last ages.

I hope it is not that bad but from what you say, it seems pretty clear.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

michael ,

it sounds like a big end sorry to say mate .

do this little test . when the engine is cold ( stone cold ) start it up and listen for the noise, it should be very mild while the engine is cold ( thick oil takes up the slac on the bearing ) .

when the engine and oil gets to normal operating temp the noise will get louder , if thats the case then its a big end .

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
michael ,

it sounds like a big end sorry to say mate .

do this little test . when the engine is cold ( stone cold ) start it up and listen for the noise,  it should be very mild while the engine is cold ( thick oil takes up the slac on the bearing ) .

when the engine and oil gets to normal operating temp the noise will get louder , if thats the case then its a big end .

ok i just did that test, the sound is louder when the car is cold, when the car comes to normal oil/rpm/temp it becomes very quite and u can bearly hear it. give the car a few revs and it comes back for a few seconds :s

i am very confused

performance-wise Grand Master

performance-wise

Posted
Posted
exhaust leak, most probably the manifold bolts/studs loose or broken or about to break.

tighten the bolts up, but there is a fair chance that some might break so take care.

Apparently this is a common flaw with the rb engines - dodgy exhaust manifold bolts!

carlo Veteran

carlo

Posted
Posted
exhaust leak, most probably the manifold bolts/studs loose or broken or about to break.

tighten the bolts up, but there is a fair chance that some might break so take care.

The botls snap.. I had EXACTLY the same thing happen to me at wakefield park. Turns out my exhaust manifold had a slight warp in it and had snapped 6 of the bolts. Its very common on skylines

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...