Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

Today my car started making a ticking sound (loud, very audioable when driving) from the turbo side of the engine. It happen when on gas, fast, slow whenever i am on the gas i hear the sound, also if i put the foot down and go up into the rev range it sounds like its getting faster. It doesnt do it on idle, thou if i rev it it sounds to only make it around the 3/4000 rpm mark (the same spot my bov starts going off)

Now with all this in mind, on monday, my Oil line from my turbo to engine blow (was rubber not metal -- dont ask me) now i lost 4L of oil, my mech replace the line with a stock metal rb line, refill with oil and the car was given the OK that everything was working

Now from my limited knownage, i think it might be the turbo, its boosting fine and making power but it sounds like the ticking is related to the spinning of the turbo wheel (guess?)

I will have the car check out on monday (or maybe 2morrow), But if i cant get it in 2morrow it will wreak my head in untill monday can anyone help

thanks mike :D

Hey

I've had the same problem with my car. Does you car have a full exhaust system? This normally happens when you have a cat-back exhaust. You build too much pressure and you blow out one of the gaskets. So as you rev higher you can hear it louder as it is leaking more air. Try getting an exhaust specialist out. Are you in sydney? Give me a yell if you are! Got someone that can help!

Phil

Yeah most likely its gonna be the one of the gaskets. I've blown one before and in the verge of blowing another one. Just get your car checked out by an exhaust specialist. It should cost around $300 mark. If you know the guy you might get it cheaper!

If it was the turbo it would be a very fast noise, almost a buzzing but if it is a ticking and you lost that much oil I'm considering a big end bearing. Get it checked fast and don't drive it unless you have to. The bearing and journal can sieze causing a conrod to snap which will destroy your engine.

Sorry if it sounds over the top but it isn't worth destroying an engine. I had one in mine and the ticking/tapping noise was quite loud in the garage and seemed louder on the left side.

Drop the oil and look for golden coloured metal specs and flakes. If they are there a bearing is going. In that case a rebuild is needed, probably with a crank and conrod big end grind. Sorry to say will be expensive if it is but you get to rebuild a decent engine that will last ages.

I hope it is not that bad but from what you say, it seems pretty clear.

michael ,

it sounds like a big end sorry to say mate .

do this little test . when the engine is cold ( stone cold ) start it up and listen for the noise, it should be very mild while the engine is cold ( thick oil takes up the slac on the bearing ) .

when the engine and oil gets to normal operating temp the noise will get louder , if thats the case then its a big end .

michael ,

it sounds like a big end sorry to say mate .

do this little test . when the engine is cold ( stone cold ) start it up and listen for the noise,  it should be very mild while the engine is cold ( thick oil takes up the slac on the bearing ) .

when the engine and oil gets to normal operating temp the noise will get louder , if thats the case then its a big end .

ok i just did that test, the sound is louder when the car is cold, when the car comes to normal oil/rpm/temp it becomes very quite and u can bearly hear it. give the car a few revs and it comes back for a few seconds :s

i am very confused

exhaust leak, most probably the manifold bolts/studs loose or broken or about to break.

tighten the bolts up, but there is a fair chance that some might break so take care.

Apparently this is a common flaw with the rb engines - dodgy exhaust manifold bolts!

exhaust leak, most probably the manifold bolts/studs loose or broken or about to break.

tighten the bolts up, but there is a fair chance that some might break so take care.

The botls snap.. I had EXACTLY the same thing happen to me at wakefield park. Turns out my exhaust manifold had a slight warp in it and had snapped 6 of the bolts. Its very common on skylines

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2025 PRP GTR Festival - A Massive Thank You from SAU NSW! On behalf of SAU NSW, I want to extend a huge thank you to our incredible committee for all the hard work and dedication behind the scenes. You are the engine that keeps this club running smoothly! (hopefully an RB lol😆) To all our amazing volunteers who helped make the GTR Festival Sydney such a success, thank you for giving your time, energy and sacrificing your weekend sleep-ins. Your efforts did not go unnoticed and were absolutely appreciated by everyone. We also want to give a big shoutout to the workshops, trade stalls, and the awesome VIP's we connected with over the weekend. Your support means the world to us, and we’re so proud to be part of such a passionate automotive scene. We are looking forward to collaborating with you at our future events.  SAU NSW had our marquee up for two full days at GTR Festival, packed with merchandise, a sizzling members BBQ, and a chance to chat with the committee, sign up, and check out some hot Skylines on display from our members. It was incredible seeing so many smiles and genuine conversations, that's what we're all about! SAU NSW is more than just a car club... we’re building a community where you can make friends, share stories, and talk about anything RB related or not. 📸 Please post any cool pics you took at the GTR Festival in this thread! 📸 To our current members, thank you for your ongoing loyalty, and to all our new members... welcome to the family! We’re beyond excited to have you on board! Please ensure you are involved as much as possible within the club, and make the most of our exciting upcoming events. Here’s to more future events, thrilling drives, chill meets and good feeds! Let’s keep building something special. 💪🚗💨 Matt Zoumpoulis, President SAU NSW
    • Yes, well, keep in mind that the air is intake air, which equal boost + possible oil. If there is a fine deposition of oil/scunge that then gets hot and carbonises, it could look just like that. Probably shouldn't be leaking. Might just be normal for that product. Hard to know if it is relevant.
    • Wrapped up putting the motor back in today. I have a stainless flex turbo drain pipe like you see on cummins and that funny enough PRP started selling. I generally prefer these but sadly they come with a finite amount of times they can be bent before they snap. Took well over a week for a replacement to arrive.  I was able to prime the pump but I will more then likely wait until next friday to take it on its madden voyage. I also installed the nozzles for my direct port WMI setup but plugged the nozzle holders for now. I'll tube it with Swagelok SS tubing and fittings next chance I get. No rush, i'll be breaking it for a week or two anyways. 
    • I could definitely do some logs without the VCT enabled for sure. I believe we tried it on the dyno and it still spiked but wouldn't hurt to try again and have the logs    I might be able to use some metal cable ties and hold the gate open entirely, I'd need to see about that one.   What do we think about these marks on the cap of the actuator? This is where the two parts push together where the diaphragm spring is. To me they look like air has been sleeping past?? Specifically talking about those black stains above the lower rim/lip. They can be rubbed away as if it's just an exhaust stain.  
    • And if it still spikes, just for now, turn off VCT completely by disabling it OR simply unplug the solenoid. Just to rule out excessive exhaust pressure. I recall a video from Motive DVD about a decade ago, where Hawkins original single Garrett GTX3582 or so turbo had boost control issues sub 1.4bar of boost as well.   Food for thought? Is there anyway you can peg the WG completely open and/or dodgily not plumb it back into your exhaust system for testing purposes?
×
×
  • Create New...