Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

Today my car started making a ticking sound (loud, very audioable when driving) from the turbo side of the engine. It happen when on gas, fast, slow whenever i am on the gas i hear the sound, also if i put the foot down and go up into the rev range it sounds like its getting faster. It doesnt do it on idle, thou if i rev it it sounds to only make it around the 3/4000 rpm mark (the same spot my bov starts going off)

Now with all this in mind, on monday, my Oil line from my turbo to engine blow (was rubber not metal -- dont ask me) now i lost 4L of oil, my mech replace the line with a stock metal rb line, refill with oil and the car was given the OK that everything was working

Now from my limited knownage, i think it might be the turbo, its boosting fine and making power but it sounds like the ticking is related to the spinning of the turbo wheel (guess?)

I will have the car check out on monday (or maybe 2morrow), But if i cant get it in 2morrow it will wreak my head in untill monday can anyone help

thanks mike :D

Hey

I've had the same problem with my car. Does you car have a full exhaust system? This normally happens when you have a cat-back exhaust. You build too much pressure and you blow out one of the gaskets. So as you rev higher you can hear it louder as it is leaking more air. Try getting an exhaust specialist out. Are you in sydney? Give me a yell if you are! Got someone that can help!

Phil

Yeah most likely its gonna be the one of the gaskets. I've blown one before and in the verge of blowing another one. Just get your car checked out by an exhaust specialist. It should cost around $300 mark. If you know the guy you might get it cheaper!

If it was the turbo it would be a very fast noise, almost a buzzing but if it is a ticking and you lost that much oil I'm considering a big end bearing. Get it checked fast and don't drive it unless you have to. The bearing and journal can sieze causing a conrod to snap which will destroy your engine.

Sorry if it sounds over the top but it isn't worth destroying an engine. I had one in mine and the ticking/tapping noise was quite loud in the garage and seemed louder on the left side.

Drop the oil and look for golden coloured metal specs and flakes. If they are there a bearing is going. In that case a rebuild is needed, probably with a crank and conrod big end grind. Sorry to say will be expensive if it is but you get to rebuild a decent engine that will last ages.

I hope it is not that bad but from what you say, it seems pretty clear.

michael ,

it sounds like a big end sorry to say mate .

do this little test . when the engine is cold ( stone cold ) start it up and listen for the noise, it should be very mild while the engine is cold ( thick oil takes up the slac on the bearing ) .

when the engine and oil gets to normal operating temp the noise will get louder , if thats the case then its a big end .

michael ,

it sounds like a big end sorry to say mate .

do this little test . when the engine is cold ( stone cold ) start it up and listen for the noise,  it should be very mild while the engine is cold ( thick oil takes up the slac on the bearing ) .

when the engine and oil gets to normal operating temp the noise will get louder , if thats the case then its a big end .

ok i just did that test, the sound is louder when the car is cold, when the car comes to normal oil/rpm/temp it becomes very quite and u can bearly hear it. give the car a few revs and it comes back for a few seconds :s

i am very confused

exhaust leak, most probably the manifold bolts/studs loose or broken or about to break.

tighten the bolts up, but there is a fair chance that some might break so take care.

Apparently this is a common flaw with the rb engines - dodgy exhaust manifold bolts!

exhaust leak, most probably the manifold bolts/studs loose or broken or about to break.

tighten the bolts up, but there is a fair chance that some might break so take care.

The botls snap.. I had EXACTLY the same thing happen to me at wakefield park. Turns out my exhaust manifold had a slight warp in it and had snapped 6 of the bolts. Its very common on skylines

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...