Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

okay i have a few questions here.

Ive been searching for a R33 Gtst for about a month now, i have 15g to spend, ive been looking on tradingpost.com.au, and carsales.com.au, and in the paper alot, is there any other sites i could visit where i might have a few more options.

Also what do you guys think of a GTS4 4WD turbo, 1993 manual for $13700, and how the 4WD scrub up to the rear wheels.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55173-buying-a-skyline/
Share on other sites

gts4 are the closest youll get to a gtr handeling wise without getting a gtr, the extra weight will make them a little slower than the rwd's but a few mods and thats fixed nicely. sounds like a good price for a 93 model but be sure to get it fully checked out cos it does sound a bit cheap and there could be something majorly wrong with it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55173-buying-a-skyline/#findComment-1076843
Share on other sites

Depends how you're going to drive. If you are going to drift (hopefully off the streets) then go the gts-t as they go sideways easily

If you're after something thats going to have more solid steering go the gts-4.

The rb20 is phenominally powerful, and the performance between it and a gts-t (r33) is minimal.

As goon said, if you just "chuck" on a turbo on the r33 gts-4 its going to cost you alot (along with what he said). The clutch will go straightaway and the computer management system will need to be re-configured in order for the turbo to work efficiently.

Also what do you guys think of a GTS4 4WD turbo, 1993 manual for $13700, and how the 4WD scrub up to the rear wheels

Thats a bit ambiguous, how many K's has it done? are there any modifications [perhaps to the boost,etc etc?]

Look at the car in person, its much safer mate.

Hope you make a choice you're happy with

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55173-buying-a-skyline/#findComment-1077015
Share on other sites

Seeing as you've only got 15 grand to play with, it will be hard to find a nice mint condition r33, i got my r32 for 14 and i've seen some r32s go up to 20grand...

i didnt know the r33 came out in gts4....take a closer inspection if you look at the car cause i think the dealer is talking gibberish.

if you want traction settle for the gts4 model, if you want fun go the rear will drive and im sure everyone in here can vouch that it is fun! off the streets ofcourse...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55173-buying-a-skyline/#findComment-1078137
Share on other sites

Zoom magazine did a back to back comparison of the r32 and r33 gts4 6 months ago, both are turbo charged from factory. R33 gts4 came in both n/a and turbo charged, the turbo model is rare compared to the n/a model.

Jason.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55173-buying-a-skyline/#findComment-1078504
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
×
×
  • Create New...