Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

As some of you may know from my other thread, I am having some trouble with a R32 front cut ...

I did a compression test 2nite, and was a little suprised with the results... so repeated the test 3 times with exactly the same results.... The motor only has 119000k on it.....

Results are ...

1 - 150

2 - 145

3 - 145

4 - 130

5 - 135

6 - 150

The cut has a 3 month warrenty... i've only had it a week, and have not made much inroads into stripping it... what do you all think? Call them and take it back?

Please help! :)

was cold..... hmmm maybe i should put it all back together and warm it up :)

is it really meangingless tho ? not even an indication of internal health ? :confused:

I dont worry too much about the pressures, is your gauge calibrated...been dropped lately, read accurately in the first place?

Just go on the variation between the cylinders. Cylinders 4 & 5 look a little low, but i doubt they are low enough to justify replacement?!?!!?!?! Still mine read a lot closer then that when i had done 155,000kms on my RB20

The variation is a little on the high side but i doupt they will take it back .

Its a second hand engine they will say to you ,what do you expect .

If you check with the nissan workshop manual , difference between cil limit is 14 psi so its almost to specs limit . Well number 4 is out by a little more that that .

Anyway you can try and see what they will say .

how many rev's have you tested it at its maby a good thing to count them as cheep comp testers keep presuring up and down as thier internals arnt so great in conclusion your test readings are not so bad if say in cylinder 1 you did 7revs and 4 did 5revs this could be your issue also warm your engine up before hand it will make a diffrents

All I did was turn it over until the guage stopped moving... I did not do the same on all.. I was not counting.... just stopped when the guage stopped

I will do it at running temp.. see what I get then... I cant see how it will make a huge diff....

:coffee:

plugs looked fine...

well....................alrighty then!!!

it will do you no harm asking/telling your mechanic of your issue, (and I understand that it can be an emotional one!!), see what he says about it.

(the guy u bought the engine off, or whatever).

Do your 'warm test' though, as your fellow Skliner's suggest, first up.

I know how you feel, but your baby will be fine!!! (got heaps of life left in the thing!!)

Remember Ed G......the test between a truly warm/hot engine and a cold one can be quite dynamic!! That's just the way they work!!

ah.......anyways!!!

Mark :)

Yeah...just stressin!!

I'mnot going to call the dude until after I have done the warm test.... doing it 2moro (just put it all back together)

The motor is smooth tho, no knocks/clicks/taps etc, so just hoping for the best 2moro... Will post up the results!

I hope its ok!

The difference between ring end gap from a warm to cold RB20 is around 10 thou, so YES...this will make a difference. Also, have you done a wet compression test. This will give you a true indication of whether the rings are bad. All you gotta do is a normal pressure test, then pour about 2 capfulls of oil down the sparkplug hole and do the cylinder again. Note the new readings and then post them hear. I will tell you if the rings appear stuffed.

NO QUESTIONS...JUST DO IT!

2 Cap Fulls?!?!?! Thats quite a lot... :D

My RB20t when I pulled it out had 140 all round with 5psi variation +-.

I would have loved to see how much more it had left in it. I pulled it out at 169,000km's.

Its only ever run the stocker turbo on 1-1.1bar though. :)

There was a tinny little bit of oil that had coated the inside of all the piping but it was really stuff all. Probably just a build up over time.

Yeah...just stressin!!

I'mnot going to call the dude until after I have done the warm test.... doing it 2moro (just put it all back together)  

The motor is smooth tho, no knocks/clicks/taps etc, so just hoping for the best 2moro... Will post up the results!

I hope its ok!

Motor is smooth, no knocking, idles ok? ROSES!

there you go!

Do not pour oil down your sparky holes!!! Not a drop!

Like mentioned, comp lock can and will (to some degree) occur.

Just wait and do what you said you were going to do for now. 'Wet test' (if you feel you really have to) later.???????

idle is not ok :D see other thread .. uhh will find the link...

Will do warm test... post then wet test if needed .... what does the wet test prove that a 'dry' test wont?? :confused:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...