Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how many rev's have you tested it at its maby a good thing to count them as cheep comp testers keep presuring up and down as thier internals arnt so great in conclusion your test readings are not so bad if say in cylinder 1 you did 7revs and 4 did 5revs this could be your issue also warm your engine up before hand it will make a diffrents

what? you turn it over to compression.

so they all will be the same

Wwhen you put oil in the cilinders the compression will rise for 2 reasons :

1) the oil will make the combustion chamber smaller , so you are compressing same volume of air into a smaller area .

2) the oil stops compression going through the rings .

You only pour oil in the cils if you have low compression in one or more cils ( like 30 %- 50 % less than the others ) , then you pour oil in there to determine if its valves or bottom end .

If compression doesn't rise quite a lot its valves , if it does rise a lot then its rings usualy .

A better test is a leakdown test , thats what you should be doing if you have a leakdown tester .

Ok, did warm test, but my bro dropped the comp tester before we started ( :goddam: ) so the results may not be accurate!

1 - 145

2 - 145

3 - 145

4 - 145

5 - 145

6 - 150

Also cleaned the AFM and when gapping the plugs found one that was stuffed! Hopefully that is responsable for my miss!

As to the crappy idle, it's better but sill not good :cuss: it still hunts wont settle, but not as bad as before (I also found a vaccume leak)... so will need to check it out more!

What's the first thing you thought when you saw those numbers?

Head gasket between 4 and 5.

Are you planning on big horsepower, lots of mods, then you might have a problem.

But it's done 120K's (at least) it runs nicely and will probably go for years. That's the hassle with Rb20's they're getting old and you have to weigh up their cost against a newer Rb25.

My latest Rb20 had 119k, runs sweet enough but has one weak cylinder. I've done about 100k since with only routine maintenance and it's still fine.

If I was to go mad with boost, it would probably die, so ultimately it's up to you.

Regards.

well done Ed G, nice figures! (hope u r feeling better now!!)

I really believe you'll find a small 'air/vac' leak soon,... I'm learning how much these motors won't tolerate the slightest escape/introduction of air.

Aren't your fellow Skliner's just ace?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...