Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellas,

just interested in others opinions about the release of the F6 Typhoon. Reading the article in the Daily Telegraph drive section today was a good read. I am really excited that ford are now using turbos as part of their performance car line up and are admitting that it is faster than the falcon GT.

Also, what is with the comments made from the holden guy. Is it a eight, six or supercharged. Um no sorry mate its turbocharged and yes turbo cars are high performance cars as well, its not onyl a v8 category.

I am happy that ford are acknowledging what we all know here, which is that turbo cars can easily match it with the V8's.

i just got the impression that the holden guy was implying that v8's are what people want here as performance cars, which isnt a true representation.

However if you just bought an xr6t for 46k and took it to croydon and put in those aps kits then it would be making more power and be quicker than the 58k priced F6? Just a thought...

And those gauges the F6 has on top of the centre dash piece, are they built into the dash or what because i thought it was defectable when you do that on other cars, or is it ok since it is like that from factory?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55277-f6-typhoon/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

In this case it is weird.1 because i havent seen the inside of the car and 2 because it usually is defectable to have a gauge right up in your face where it is blocking your sight.

Dont know really.Some where i heard that if somthing comes from the factory floor then it is legal.meh.>>>

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55277-f6-typhoon/#findComment-1078871
Share on other sites

Its still a lardy family car underneath. Now that's not necessarily the criticism it may sound, but at the end of the day I think trying to compare it to a WRX (which FPV apparently sees as its competition) is a bit of a laugh: yes, its straight line speed is good, but how does it go around a track compared to the lighter, 4WD, and probably more nimble WRX/STi?

FPV has made no 0-100 claims, and AFAIK have backed away from questions comparing its outright speed to the GT/GT-P.

Oh, and a lot of people CBF'ed modifying their cars and voiding their factory warranties. Plus I bet a factory Typhoon will have better resale than an equivalent APS up-speced XR6-T.

LW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55277-f6-typhoon/#findComment-1078882
Share on other sites

I think that the people who buy a typhoon probably buy it for the fairmont spec interior and bigger brakes and 18 inch wheels (your get 17's on the xr6 18's on the xr8 that are standard (Brembos are an extra 3k on the xr6t extra 1500 for 18 inch wheels leather 3k etc...). Also the target market for FPV is older buyer with more money and those who CBF'd modding their cars.

The gauges are in the same place that HSV has them and are moulded into the dash its the same place as the screen on the r34 gtr so I think its not a defectable item due to the fact its built in and moulded to the dash.

Did anyone read motor magazines article on the ford territory with a 400kw superchaged V8 in it? I think the guy from CAPA superchargers is on crack why would you put a big heavy v8 in the car (the rwd model at that!). I would have thrown an APS phase 4 kit into the thing it produces about 400kw too and its lighter. The cost would have to be cheaper too. They want 79k for the V8 territory and the APS kits on 15k so it would end up being about 55 for a TX RWD with an aps kit in it (for the budget conscious) or 68k for the AWD ghia with the kit. mmmm awd traction in a shopping trolley chassis can anyone say stagea?? I think FPV is going to be releasing a turbo territory next year anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55277-f6-typhoon/#findComment-1078999
Share on other sites

yeah well i have just bought a XR6 N/A (wish it was turbo) but i love it, the only down side is the inside so next year i will trade xr6 in for the f6 cause i do want a turbo and also i want more upmarket insides either that or i will get the FPV V8 ute.

and those gauges arent illegal any ba falcon can have them you just need to take the moulded plastic out and replace it with the gauge holder which fits snug in there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55277-f6-typhoon/#findComment-1079426
Share on other sites

i test drove yesterday a friends brand new xr6t series II 6 speed

its pretty bloody good and quick as. ute also. there was a 40 odd batch run completed and delivered this week and my mate was one of the first so yeah its friggen awesome. stacks of power underneath. i took it for a quick fang, even at 120 in 6th, floor it and it just pulls like a freight train no lag or anything. under the hood, gt40, front mount, lots of cooler piping, big throttle body and a huge block as its a 4 litre.

all in all an awesome package, its 200rwkw (240 at the fly) and the f6 could only be better rumoring i think around 280 at the flywheel. the stock boost is about 6psi. the f6 has guages but they are centre console guages, like the gtr ones it comes with. they aren't above the speedo console or anything. perfectly legal and wont be defectable. the f6 makes more power buy they havent upped the boost. it still runs its stock 6psi. so theres oodles of potential. nizpro made a 1000hp xr6t engine and have kitted it so you vcan purchase it as a stage upgrade

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55277-f6-typhoon/#findComment-1079459
Share on other sites

I love my XR6 Turbo. The F6 is a nice car, but not good BFYB as they are $14k more than a xr6t. For $14k you could get 500fwkw from these motors.

For anyone with a family or a need for 4 doors they are the car of choice. While they may be 1700kg, they haul ass with over 550NM of torque (F6)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55277-f6-typhoon/#findComment-1081116
Share on other sites

I love my XR6 Turbo.  The F6 is a nice car, but not good BFYB as they are $14k more than a xr6t. For $14k you could get 500fwkw from these motors.

For anyone with a family or a need for 4 doors they are the car of choice.  While they may be 1700kg, they haul ass with over 550NM of torque (F6)

I am looking at a cobra phase 2 kit for my car atm, approx $8k, seems to be good bang for buck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55277-f6-typhoon/#findComment-1084236
Share on other sites

Wait for the BossEdit, they have cracked the BA's ECU so they can change most things. We are hearing about 280fwkw just from CAI and edit, but the injectors are the main limitation. They are not built as well as a nissan, but they are better than holden.

My cars gearbox SUX

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55277-f6-typhoon/#findComment-1084925
Share on other sites

im just curious the xr6t is 1650-1700kg and the xr8 is 1800kg or something whereas the commodore ss and clubby's are around 1650-1700kg right.

What is making the fords heavier than the holdens. A bit of weight reduction will get it 0-100km/h claimed time bragging rights over holden as the 0-100 time is always being mentioned when talking about power of the car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55277-f6-typhoon/#findComment-1084932
Share on other sites

i test drove yesterday a friends brand new xr6t series II 6 speed

its pretty bloody good and quick as. ute also. there was a 40 odd batch run completed and delivered this week and my mate was one of the first so yeah its friggen awesome. stacks of power underneath. i took it for a quick fang, even at 120 in 6th, floor it and it just pulls like a freight train no lag or anything. under the hood, gt40, front mount, lots of cooler piping, big throttle body and a huge block as its a 4 litre.

 

all in all an awesome package, its 200rwkw (240 at the fly) and the f6 could only be better rumoring i think around 280 at the flywheel. the stock boost is about 6psi. the f6 has guages but they are centre console guages, like the gtr ones it comes with. they aren't above the speedo console or anything. perfectly legal and wont be defectable. the f6 makes more power buy they havent upped the boost. it still runs its stock 6psi. so theres oodles of potential. nizpro made a 1000hp xr6t engine and have kitted it so you vcan purchase it as a stage upgrade

dude,

my apologies but i must correct you.

the FPV F6 Typhoon actually runs 0.64 Bar (~9.2 psi), but never the less, very impressive cars.

http://www.fpv.com.au/index.asp?link_id=2....7&parent_id=545

(engine section)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55277-f6-typhoon/#findComment-1085234
Share on other sites

If you ask me i say cool, good on ford for bringing turbo back into the spotlight.

Holden has done the same things for too long, props to ford for being different and using turbos for performance instead of the same old V8 power plant

grow up holden!

i have no doubt holden is in the process of developing turbo competition for ford, they'd be stupid not too.

Hopefully they properly engineer and design a new car for it, not just bring out a new commodore model that has some new lights etc like they do every few years :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55277-f6-typhoon/#findComment-1085388
Share on other sites

it may be a falcodoore but its good to see a local supplier breaking the mould and making a car for the enthusiast and not just the cave dwellers who think a big v8 with sik pushrods are the be all and end all. I say good on ford for trying to make a difference

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55277-f6-typhoon/#findComment-1085764
Share on other sites

Wait for the BossEdit, they have cracked the BA's ECU so they can change most things. We are hearing about 280fwkw just from CAI and edit, but the injectors are the main limitation. They are not built as well as a nissan, but they are better than holden.

My cars gearbox SUX

Just wondering why you keep mentioning fwkw? front wheel kilowatts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55277-f6-typhoon/#findComment-1086076
Share on other sites

i talked to a mechanic today that works at ford, and he says the f6 has 14 psi stock, and strengthened internals

but then you would think it would pull more than 270kw at engine with that much boost so i dunno

but yeh now they've got the better gearbox they're a hsv killer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55277-f6-typhoon/#findComment-1087548
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...