Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I just want to let you guys know to be wary when dealing with The Shock Absorber Reconditioners at Slacks Creek.

I had my front shocks reconditioned. They seem to be quite good now. The problem was that when I got home I noticed my front bar was hanging low on the right hand side. The mount wher the screw goes through on the bar is broken. So now I have to get my front bar fixed. :pissed:

I didn't notice it at first as they backed the car out of their workshop for me. I walked around behind the car and got in as the mechanic had left the door open for me. So just make sure you walk all the way around your car before you leave.

I spoke with one of the guys there, and they said nothing happened of course. They have a bad driveway which the guy said they can't do anything about.

Anyway, the work that they do with shocks seems to be ok. Perhaps they need to take extra care with our 'lines.

Just check your car before you leave!

Eek

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55322-careful-when-dealing-with-tsr/
Share on other sites

i got my teins fully reconditioned there by Scott (previous TSR owner) and he had no problems driving my car up/down that sinful driveway. He also told me that he's the only person whose been able to do it. It was a work of art watching him do it. From what i heard, their work has been the same since Scott left.

hope all's well with your bar :)

glenn

yeh x2

have also been victim of front bar damage :(

Ofcourse they say it wasnt them, but its a little obvious when there is actually specs of paint where it happened at their workshop :)

dont really trust any workshops to drive my car anymore, ide rather take my front bar off then drive there :nowigetit

i think its 129 per shock. they dismantle each shock, get it regas, replace bearings, seals etc. they charged an extra 40 per side to take out the shocks. kindly expensive though because with their tools and guns, each shock takes about 10 mins to remove from the car.

Why don't you guys just take the shocks in by themselves.

 

Glenn....How is life with Godzilla??

Because driving the car there without them in there is really tricky???

I went there too, they do good work, set the car up nicely too (had stupidly stiff spring rates before) No damage done to my car and before they got it was some what low.

i hate it how workshops don't take care like that.. even though working with their own driveway and low cars every day you'd think they'd be experts at it.

*unknown* workshop cracked my front bar not once, but twice.. on their heavy driveway. It wasn't hard to get out at all, and i managed it fine, and yet they just careered down there and bang.. grunt

Because driving the car there without them in there is really tricky???.

Very funny In more than 40 years of owning and running various performance cars I've learned the hard way that if you want something done properly....learn how....then do it yourself. Running something like a Skyline especially a GTR on the kind of budget most of us have, we just cannot afford to Pay people to do simple things like remove and replace bits of our cars. With just a jack, a car stand and 2 suitable spanners it should take about 20minutes to remove a suspension strut, there are only 3 nuts holding it on. Your car can't get damaged if it's sitting safely

at home while you take the struts in for rebuild. :spamcan:

I guess mine was different, we were aiming for a different set up, they pretty much needed the car. But in my case, I take something off the car so it cant be driven, I'd need to get a mate to give me a lift, or get a taxi...

My point is, you are paying for the convenience. And it would have cost my self (and I guess others more than $120 to get decent tools jack etc to be able to do that job) Sorry I just get sick people who have more mechanical knowledge, and tools telling people who really dont have that much of a clue, or no tools to do something themselfs.

) Sorry I just get sick people who have more mechanical knowledge, and tools telling people who really dont have that much of a clue, or no tools to do something themselfs.

1 thing I get sick of, is bods who don't fully read and understand posts before they jump in with a reply. :)

I did say 'learn how to'. The tech forums here and on SDU are full of info on just about all aspects of Skylines, but it needs a bit of effort to search and find what you need rather than just being the 100,000th guy to post asking the same question. There are plenty of people here more than willing to help out.

Paying for the convenience all too often becomes paying for the INconvenience of being f*ucked over by a 'professional'

Pay for a job....you have to pay again next time it needs doing. A reasonable quality tool lasts forever

ok hijack here I have the tools & the know how,

I replaced a power steer rack on a good friends car the other weekend & rather than costing over $600 it cost around $370 & that was with new rack bushings & better oil then u would normaly use in a power steering system now theres a $230 dollars better off that you can buy some tools with not saying that every one will want to take on as bigger job as doing a power steering rack but yeah just to show how much you can save.

You got to jump in some times & give it a good red hot go start with easy things like oil changes & air filter replacment onto little harder things like spark plugs replacement & slowly work your way up hey I am more than happy to show ppl how to do it if ya need help PM me for some info or a hand on a job :)

Glenn....How is life with Godzilla??

its good Jay :) slowly getting it prepared for track next winter.

Sorry I just get sick people who have more mechanical knowledge, and tools telling people who really dont have that much of a clue, or no tools to do something themselfs.

i think what old man jay is saying is that you can save 160 by taking out the shocks yourself and bringing them to TSR for the recond. Buying the stands and jacks are a 1 time investment. Think of the heaps of money you will be saving when doing oil change, etc yourself. In my situation, i wanted TSR to scale my car for me and hence, leaving my car with them :)

There is a line between "having a go" and "making your car dangerous"...

I do oil changes, brake pads, (ie: basic maintainence) and minor repairs (ie: CV shafts and seals, diff) etc no worries, but I get a mechanic I trust to do a major service once a year to verify everything is in shape - mainly stuff that is only obvious once its up on a hoist.

Changing shockies is all very well, but what if you stuff up something? To some people it may be blindingly obvious what needs to be done, but having seen the technical dramas some store owners get themselves into over something as simple as cleaning out a condensor, I can see why some people much prefer getting a professional to do it, especially if it is something fairly important (see: suspension / brakes).

I have to agree, I got TSR to re-con my coilovers on the GTR and they were fantastic, but since it has changed hands I have dealt with them a couple of times and got nothing but trouble and attitude.

My advise is, give it a go, the money you spend on labour is much better spent on tools. I have had 3 different workshops work on the GTR and ALL of them have managed to leave their mark on the car. BUTCHERS! Not worth the hassel unless it really is a job that is too difficult. Shocks on skylines are a sinch. 3 bolts and the whole lot falls out. If I remember correctly you need, jack, stands, 14mm &17mm spanners/sockets, spring compressors. Too easy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...