Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 110
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by MegaGTS4

Brody,

The best results can be achieved only after the computer has been reset and it learns a new fuel/timing map!

MEGA

I still dont believe reseting the comp does anything as the comp is consistantly getting info from the sensors and learning!

I've been told the mesh is there,,,,not only to stop any crap getting through (stuff if I can work out how any crap could get through anyway) but also to make the air-flow swirl....I've also cleaned my Meter with carby cleaner,,,,worked a dream....

INASNT,,,I'm with you,,,,After my better 1/2 has ***** footed the car for a day,,,resetting it and then driving it seems to make no difference.....Maybe it does,,,, but such a small increase in power is not really noticable.

Neil.

took apart the airbox and afm today, only to find that i couldn't find the bloody carby cleaner in the garage!!! gotta go buy a can from super cheaps. wacked a pod filter back on instead of the air box. its a cheapo one, i fink theres a huge difference between brand ones and the cheap ones. my k&n use to give a huge induction noise. can't hear crap from this cheapy one.

between the big names, there not much difference in performance, compared to the no names there is. sorry, its a bit off topic.

Originally posted by MegaGTS4

INASNT,

I could explain it to you but its better explained in these two links!

http://www.overflow.250x.com/tips.htm#reset   (Dyno graph after ECU reset)

http://www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/tech/ecu_reset.html  

MEGA

it might make sum difference on a r32 comp as it can be remapped,but it on a r33 i doubt it does anything!

When i get my fmic on and s-afc retuned i am gonna reset the comp and see for myself if it does anything at all on the dyno.

And whats with that dyno graph in the first link? its all over the show!

Originally posted by _turtle_

how do u guys take the mesh part of the afm off?  just rip it out?

also, i reset the ecu lastnite, went for a long cruise.  i don't think it does anything either.  or perhaps my car is running ok so i don't notice any difference.

flat head screw driver and rip it off!

as i said reseting dont do anything on r33 comps. they r eprom chips, they have set maps that alter slightly if knock is detected etc.

Originally posted by akeenan

 

its a paint stripper...

maybe i didnt give it heaps of thought before posting that reply

:(  

it might work!!! :(

well lets just say that if u use brake fluid to clean your AFM u might as well drink sum while u r at it, so then your car could be at the mechanics getting fixed while u r in hospital recovering from poisioning!:lol:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
×
×
  • Create New...