Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Geezzz guys the cleaner you want is electrical CO cleaner or Isopropyl alchohol. Go the dicksmith an buy a can.

Don't use carby cleaner --- it may deteriorate the plastic if left on.

Don't use brake fluid ---- it WILL deteriorate the plastic.

  • Replies 110
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guy's try the Brake Cleaner,,,It works a treat,,,,my car purrs like a kitten and I have cleaned the A/F meter at least 4 time. I also use it on my Slot Car Motors which rev to 300.000 RPM.

Neil.

Guest Brendanc

well I just pulled out the AFM and gave it a nice clean as some of you recommend.... WOW fantastic result, no more erractic idle problems, no more stalling. Everything running so smooth. I must denfinently add this to the TO DO list at service time!! :uh-huh:

I command everyone to do this !!!

I just did mine with Nulon brake cleaner.

Quick light spray, all the crap just came straight off. Put it all back together.

I could tell as soon as it started that it was better. It dropped down to normal idle speed faster and HEAPS smoother.

It just purrs now.

It makes sence, if the sensor has oil crap all over it, it won't give a true reading, or it might take longer for it give the right reading.

This will now be part of a standard service when I do the air filter/plugs/oil etc...

J

im gonna try out the brake cleaner tomorrow, after i go supercheapauto and buy some. do u just spray it a few times, then let it dry and put it back?

i saw some brake cleaner at k-mart the other day, on the back it said that it could be used to clean all sorts of stuff.

Originally posted by _turtle_

im gonna try out the brake cleaner tomorrow, after i go supercheapauto and buy some.  do u just spray it a few times, then let it dry and put it back?

i saw some brake cleaner at k-mart the other day, on the back it said that it could be used to clean all sorts of stuff.

Yepp, make sure you read the label cause the first (cheap) one that I picked up said that it advised not to use it on plastic !!!!

Then i had a look at the Nulon one and it actually said that it can be used on plastic and rubber to remove oil and slime :P so I got that one.

Give the whole inside a good squirt, but be gentle when spraying the actual sensor in the middle. Sort of 1/4 press the nozzle and let is drizzle out onto it if you know what I mean. I'm not sure how robust the sensor is.

J

I went to Repco to get some stuff to clean my AFM.

I ended up doing as rev210 said and bought some electrical contact cleaner as it leaves no residue.

The guy at Repco said do not with a captial never use brake cleaner as it leaves a residue and can stuff up the AFM.

But I guess on the other hand guys here have used the brake cleaner and it's been ok.

Haven't tried it on mine yet though ... I'll do it Saturday and see if mine idles smoother :P

Yepp, make sure you read the label cause the first (cheap) one that I picked up said that it advised not to use it on plastic !!!!

thats what the one i saw in Kmart said on the label, not to use on plastic. i think i'll go with the nulon since u've already tried it out and its all good. thanks. i'll try this out saturday morning first thing.

  • 3 weeks later...
Originally posted by JiMiH

I went to Repco to get some stuff to clean my AFM.

I ended up doing as rev210 said and bought some electrical contact cleaner as it leaves no residue.

The guy at Repco said do not with a captial never use brake cleaner as it leaves a residue and can stuff up the AFM.

I'm having problems with my idle too. You used an electrical contact cleaner? How were the results?

My Pod is a simota non oil based type so I'm wondering if it's got any cause to why my idle is so rough. Seems to get even worse when the car's been running hot or on a hot day. Some have said it could be a split vacuum hose too. HELP!

  • 2 months later...
Guest Pickled Icecream

I would strongly advise the use of Electrical Contact Cleaner.

After all, your AFM is an electrical device comprised of electrical

components.

I dont know about you, but my AFM neither squirts fuel nor

creates brake dust.

I have used Electrical Contact Cleaner on my AFM with great

success.

Accept no substitutes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...