Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what is the in's and outs on these? and do they fix the coilpack  problems (4000-5000 popping) people get from there skylines???

theres a thread by someone that the is a hairline crack on the coil, if you tape that up it will stop the 5000 poping / boost cutting feeling.

also in that thread, someone argued that the power fc or was it a safc will resolve that problem too.

dont know if its true or not, so i will have a look at the coils this weekend and tape it, cause mine pops alot and cant keep up with the boys

were the $1000 prices in Aus for immediately available? Because the Nengun price may require 15% duty + 10% GST making it $750, and could take a couple of weeks sea freight. I guess people are often willing to pay more to get them sooner

Sounds like the stock coils are pretty weak.

Nope - just many years old and been through lots of heat cycles (ambient to maybe 80C). Given these conditions, I think that they survive pretty well!

After messing around with buying used coils, I went for the Splitfires to get rid of the missing once and for all. New coils from Nissan are actually more than the Splitfires.

Im Running 12psi - suffering the same problem both in my GTS-T and GTR both 93's. You could go a bosch external coil pack like I did on the GTS-T prior to selling. I then sufferd a problem with the Ignitor. I beleive 10-12 years and thats enough, time to replace.

Correct on the age and also having them down the centre of the valley there is continuos heat in addition covered over by the plate. You will see alot of Skylines with the cover removed. Only problem removing is water/moister sitting.

Very interested in the Splitfire. Perhaps a group buy from Nengun and we could get a heap at a more affordable price.

Mate they are PISS easy. All u need is an allen key to undo the 8 allen bolts on the black nissan cover on the top of the engine. Remove the intake piping by undoing the hose clamps. Take off the black cover, then unclip each harness from the coil packs. Undo another few bolts, and the 2 coil pack assemblies come off.

how difficult are these to install?

I'm a newby, best left to the pro's?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...