Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Scuse me - These are the side Indicators?, not the clear front indicators.

If your keen for original go for it ($120) UAS. However, do they have to be original / Nismo expensive.

Wouldn't a pair that you think looks great from Repco, Autopro etc... do the Job ($20). Just my opinion.

Im looking ATM to replace mine.

So as I walk down the street I'm checking em out on the cars. Saw nice ones on a BMW - but again they'd be pricey.

Thing with the R33 ones, is they are recessed into the body of the car, a-like so:

http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/General...er33-skirts.jpg

EDIT: Also, here's a pic of the Nismo ones:

http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/Nismo/n...ismowinkers.jpg

Ta Ewen - worked that out on my way through the car park.

- I walked out of work today and there was a black 33 parked under the convention centre. I took a look and thought - Hmm recessed! That's why...

I'm not across 33's like I am with the 32.

I have just ordered some from perfectrun.com.au (thanks Lazza), came to $64au including freight. Even with the likely 15% import duty, still way ahead of the $120 + freight most other places seem to be charging.

I'll let you know how they go, in case anybody else is considering buying some.

Ok, they turned up on Monday, so that's a week from ordering online to delivery. Not bad for parts out of Japan.

Cost was $64 all up and no import tax.

Now just gotta figure out how to put the little buggers in......

Also i am this is a call out to any canberra members who want a set (prefereably only 1 or 2 people as when i ran up the place JD_R33 ordered them through the price i got was about $44 for the indicators and $23 for postage however if we can get another one or two people i can just get them posted to my house and should hopefully save a few $$$'s so long as customs dont pick up on them. anyways let me know as you will hard pressed to find these for < $70 in aus brand new

There freight prices seem to be a bit hit and miss. Their web site says that clear indicator lenses are 0.1 - 0.3kgs which is 1200yen ($15au), they charged me 1500yen ($19au). Now they have quoted you $23? What the.....?

Anyways, still a lot cheaper than the rest.

Also i am this is a call out to any canberra members who want a set (prefereably only 1 or 2 people as when i ran up the place JD_R33 ordered them through the price i got was about $44 for the indicators and $23 for postage however if we can get another one or two people i can just get them posted to my house and should hopefully save a few $$$'s so long as customs dont pick up on them. anyways let me know as you will hard pressed to find these for < $70 in aus brand new

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...