Jump to content
SAU Community

Coil packs question.

fane

By fane,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

fane Mentor

fane

Posted
Posted

Simple questions guys coz i dont know. Thanks for Help... :)

Are rb26 coil packs much better than rb25det(series1) coil packs?

Can you put rb26 coil packs on a rb25det(series1)?

What coil packs should i get for my rb25det(series1) because they are my week point now, its breaking down now that i can run more boost with my hi-flow turbs..

thanks again,

Fane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55694-coil-packs-question/
Share on other sites
SLY33 Mentor

SLY33

Posted
Posted

there is nothing wrong with the std coils when they are working, the cheap option is to fix your ones. If its breaking down at higher boost but fine at lower boost, chances are the pack(s) just have a tiny crack in the housing. You can fix this for nothing with some electrical tape.

Splitfires are great, but for a hi-flow application are not a neccessity, and i wouldnt spend 600-900$ on a set if i didnt have to!

fane Mentor

fane

Posted
  • Author
Posted

cheers for the responses guys...

sly33: its slightly breaking down but its not like when the plugs start missing whenm you havent gapped them close enough....its very soft....could it just be the AFM maxing out?

i have hi-flow turbo @ 12psi, fmic and all the usual bolts ons and a turbo back...stock afm and fuel system... what you reckon?

if everyone still thinks its coils...then where do i put the electrical tape?

SLY33 Mentor

SLY33

Posted
Posted

fane, it could possibly be your AFM, although if it happens at just 12psi its a bit more unlikely.. obviously you dont have an FC or you could easily check if it was the afm.

id still give the coils an inspection, its not real hard, if you can change plugs you can do it.

So you need to find a crack before you go taping them up!

i dont have the pictures of my coils anymore... if i can remember, at the front (or back, depending on which coil) above where the rubber boot ends there are some raised numbers, its around here that you may find a tiny vertical hairline crack, mine was so small i had to put it under very good light to see it, and even then i wasnt sure if it was actually cracked, but i ran a couple layers of tape around the coilpack body, covering the crack, and straight away it ran perfectly. The one that went was the one closest to the firewall, and the one i checked last! so you may want to start from the back one! I have heard of people finding cracks in nearly all there coils, so have a careful look with a magnifying glass.

Fitzpatrick Speed Works Mentor

Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Posted
Posted

fane mate they are all the same to answer you original question, only the rubber stem varies in length between the rb20 25 and 26 and this can be swapped over by simply pulling it off and interswapping to your needs!!!

fane Mentor

fane

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks s13drifter

sly33, i took car for a drive and it starts at 12 an goes all the way up to 16

basically what my car is like is that its just a huge flat spot....HUGE, then about 6400rpm really kicks you in the ass til 7200rpm....

but i just want to know what it could be.... on my SAFC it used to just hit close to 97 and 98% on the airflow, now it hits 100% real early when the flat spot starts, thats what makes me think its the afm.....whats everyone reackon..... ps. AFRs are around 11.8-12

steve, i asked whether they would fit, because i have a 25 and i want to put them in....so in other words it would deffinately fit...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By MBS206 · Posted

      When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

    • Rezz
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Rezz · Posted

      Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • Kinkstaah
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
×
×
  • Create New...