Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

all the machining, painting, various bits and pieces etc and the Arias pistons set me back about $4000... I had my gf's dad who has his own workshop take out the motor, strip it and put it back in again, with some help from me... so I saved $$ on labour

It will go on the dyno soon, just to check a/f ratios etc... I won't be doing a power run for at least 1000km...

my mechanic has layed down the law...

*soup nazi voice* "...no boost for you!"

4k is around the mark.

I had my RB30 bottom end rebuilt with 87mm forged pistons, balanced to 1gm, blueprinted, multilayer steel headgasket & head bolted on for $3700.

I had it built up with another RB30DET so it saved some $$ in the setting up of machines, tools etc. It saved myself around $500.

The blueprinting was done for a carton of crownies and some company's time :)

The head cost me another $1100 to rebuild, port & polish.

lol..

Its taken me almost 2 years to get my RB30DET in from the day I first bought the rb30E series 2 NA block.

It was easier than I expected..

Only mods really required were the engine mounts & Dump pipe..

Thats unless you use a Greedy RB25 plenum then it all bolts in no problemo.

RB25DET is a good motor. :D

If I had a RB25DET I probably wouldn't go the RB30DET to be honests.

I would have looked at 87mm pistons, GTR crank & rods.

But being a R32 owner I was cursed with the RB20DET... lol :D

Very clean looking engine.

Stock turbo or have you upgraded that also?

yeah they did a good job, from what I can tell...

just the stock turbo went back on, its going to be a slow build up now... I had a cooler and a few other bits and pieces that were going on the old engine, but had to cancel my orders to finance the rebuild...

It all comes down to $$$ I could have gone into debt to get more goodies but wasn't that keen to pimp myself... yet... :boobies2:

lol..

Its taken me almost 2 years to get my RB30DET in from the day I first bought the rb30E series 2 NA block.

It was easier than I expected..

Only mods really required were the engine mounts & Dump pipe..

Thats unless you use a Greedy RB25 plenum then it all bolts in no problemo.

RB25DET is a good motor. ;)

If I had a RB25DET I probably wouldn't go the RB30DET to be honests.

I would have looked at 87mm pistons, GTR crank & rods.

But being a R32 owner I was cursed with the RB20DET... lol :rolleyes:

the rb20det is NOT a curse! ;)

on and nice looking engine, Nick - its great to have you back on the road...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...