Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I was wondering if anyone has any info or websites about when to service ur car.

I have an R33 gtst and was wondering when to change engine oil, gearbox oil.. etc and which oil to use for the different thing.

If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/
Share on other sites

Change the oil yourself, should take less than 15 minutes. That way you know what's being used in your car. I would change it every 5000km or so personally, and depending on the quality of the filter I would change it every 5000 or 10000.

Other fluids (brake, transmission, diff, clutch) don't need to be changed for 50000 or 100000km. So change them all when you get the car and forget about them for the next few years.

According to the owner's manual, the transmission fluid NEVER needs to be changed if the car is used for private use, and at 100000 if it's used for business. Personally I would change it no later than 100000 regardless.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-86727
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

JimX: Do you know what specs the transmission oil should be??

Someone told me the performance of the trans oil should be suited to the engine oil. I've got Shell Helix Ultra (5W-40) in there at the moment. In the past few weeks the gear changes have become a bit "klunky". I was gonna change the oil to see if it has any effect. The car has done 96,000km if that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-104799
Share on other sites

I don't know much about tranny oil, except that Lightweight Shockproof is good for new gearboxes and Heavyweight is good for worn ones, or ones used for racing. If it's only a bit clunky and not crunching, I would go the Lightweight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-104822
Share on other sites

Guys can you please list what engine oil you use ? I -BADLY- need to change my oil (like within the next 3 seconds) otherwise things are going to fall apart.

I know its done 8,500km+ on the current oil with nothing changed. :D

I have no idea of what oil to use and the 1 thats currently in there (http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4s.../4stroke12.html) i have no idea where to find (the normal places don't stock it)

Any help would be appreciated and the quicker the better.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-105211
Share on other sites

I've used Castrol synthetic oil for my last 2 oil changes. I can't remember the names/grades, but it was from Auto 1 and they had 2 types. I got the cheap stuff the first time ($50) and the expensive stuff the second tmie ($70). I think I'll continue to run with the latter for all future oil changes.

I've still got the bottles at home, I can go look it up if you're that interested. Otherwise just ring up Auto 1 and ask them about their synthetic oil. They also sell Mobil 1 which I think was $60.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-105244
Share on other sites

I use Mobil 1. change it every 5000km... im sure changing the

oil makes a difference.. it's like the oil tends to harden as

time goes by... it revs more freely... I change my oil filter with

this.. takes 15 minutes...

benm,

It's easy.. all u need is a jack.. a size 14 socket.. the tool to

remove the oil filter.. and a drip tray.. and u'r away...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-105331
Share on other sites

Benm, the oil I'm running atm is Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W-60. The oil I had previous to this was Castrol Formula R Synthetic 5W-30.

Duncan, do you run Motul full or semi synth? I use semi in my motorcycle because full synth is supposedly not good for the wet clutch, and it costs about $40 for 4 litres. The full synth was about $100 :eek: Just wondering if the price was around the same for the car grade oils. The bike only takes 3 litres so I always have 1 litre left over after every oil change :P (doesn't use a single drop between changes)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-105860
Share on other sites

I use Penzoil synthetic for the engine oil.

I don't remember the numbers but it is labelled for high performance cars or for turbo cars or something along those lines.

I change the oil filter every second oil change.

I changed the gearbox oil a few months back.

Once again, Penzoil Lightweight shock proof oil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-106123
Share on other sites

I went to AutoOne yesterday and asked afew guys down there, they rang Castrol, Pennzoil and another store and they all recommended the 'Castrol Magnatec' (same as what a mate uses and was told to use in his Skyline).

It only cost me $26 (5L) but looking at the other high performance Oils they were all like $70-80 (5L).

I haven't changed it yet but is this oil ok or should i exchange it for something different? (I honestly have no idea just gone by what u all said on here and the guys at the store said).

??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-106128
Share on other sites

Ok i did it all by myself and it was a piece of piss. Took me about 30mins and i got alittle dirty but it was fun.

Can't really tell if its made any immediate difference, i think it might feel alittle smoother going up thru the gears at high revs but that may also be coz i havent been on turbo for afew days coz of the rain.

I want to change the Transmission Oil now (something REALLY good). I've had afew noises appear in 2nd gear in the last 4 days and i was hoping it was just because the engine oil had done 10,000km but after changing the oil the noise is still their now and then. (maybe 3x a day for 1sec each).

Where do i check/change the transmission Oil of a 5sp manual ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-107326
Share on other sites

Transmission oil is a bitch of a job to do at home. You certainly can do it and I have done it myself on other cars, but personally I'd rather pay a mechanic to do it. They will put it up on a hoist and use a hand pump to pump the fluid in and it's all very easy and quick. Compare this to what you'd have to do at home especially if you don't have a pump and you can see why I don't mind paying a few bucks to have it done cleaner and quicker.

I paid Midas $60 to change my transmission, diff, and clutch fluids, with them supplying the clutch fluid and me supplying the rest. In and out in under half an hour (only maybe 15 minutes actually spent on the car), which would have been a half-day job for me at home :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-107350
Share on other sites

Engine oil: Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W-60

Transmission oil: Redline Heavyweight Shockproof

Diff oil: No idea :P It was just heavy duty stuff designed for limited slip diffs I bought from Auto 1, cost about $20.

Since the diff doesn't have synchros to crunch I thought there was much less of a reason to put expensive oil in there. But I guess I will bite the bullet and get some Redline oil for the diff if I manage to blow it. So far so good :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-107385
Share on other sites

Originally posted by JimX

Duncan, do you run Motul full or semi synth? I use semi in my motorcycle because full synth is supposedly not good for the wet clutch, and it costs about $40 for 4 litres.

It was the fully synth, and cost about $50 for 4.5 litres, but there was labour on top of that (done at a workshop)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-107394
Share on other sites

I DO MY OIL CHANGES EVERY 7500KM'S, I US MOTUL OIL, ITS ABOUT $80 4 5LITRES. IF U R DOING UR RADIATOR I RECCOMEND U USE NISSAN LONGLIFE COOLANT AS THE SKYLINES ARE SENSETIVE TO THE COOLANT U USE, OH AND DONT FORGET TO CHANGE THE OIL FILTER PS. I DO THE SERVICE AT HOME AND IT TAKES ME ABOUT 1HR

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-108019
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
    • Murphy strikes again! Nothing at all would have gone wrong if you had the tool kit in the car! You'd have just found the clamp loose the next time you went to touch it...
    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
×
×
  • Create New...