Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

probably not appropriate to be taking it out to the red line, but I always drive an auto like a manual. maybe stretch it out to 4k then shift to the next highest gear. change down a gear (or 2) coming into a corner.

I like to be in charge of the power delivery.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5611-driving-automatics/#findComment-84893
Share on other sites

If the auto is on a jap car, just press the "power" button. This will take your revs out to redline before changing, if you have your foot planted. If your foot is not planted then there is no need to go to the redline. This is quicker than trying to change yourself.

But if you do this to go around corners faster, then what you are doing is the only way to keep revs up. Or buy a manual gearbox.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5611-driving-automatics/#findComment-84933
Share on other sites

Can you guys with AUTO trans

can you tell me what serial number is on your skyline...

____________________________________________

Transmissions:

RE4R01A 4 speed auto

RE4R07A 4 speed auto

RE5R01A 5 speed auto

FS5R30A 5 speed manual

FS5W7 5 speed manual GTS

Transmission / Axle RE4R01A RC43

____________________________________________

They can be found under the bonnet BLUE Jap Plate.

I am trying to find out if my R33 GTS-4 has same auto trans as R33 GTS-T or R32 GTS4

cheers

Joe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5611-driving-automatics/#findComment-84956
Share on other sites

Originally posted by MegaGTS4

Pva_Glue,

RE4R01A is on my R32 GTS-4's blue plate if thats any help to you.

MEGA

Thank you! very Much! Now I have to find that normal Non-turbo R33 GTS25 skyline has RE4R01A trannies which means, they are all same GTS4 or not!

I wonder if turbo GTS25T has same Trannies

also is there other number after the serieal number like;

RE4R01A RC43

cheers

Joe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5611-driving-automatics/#findComment-85137
Share on other sites

Originally posted by blakey

Hey Joe,

I just had a look at the plate on my '93 R33 GTSt.  It says RE4R01A RC43.

Cheers,

Blake

shit COOL! cool! is that mean all AUTOMATIC Trans are same! so they can interchangeble!!! What A good News

cuz all this time I was searching for the R33 GTS-4 Gearboxes! so I can put GTS25T automatic boxes!

Thanks for the infoamtions guys!

anyone willing to add on this?

cheers

Joe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5611-driving-automatics/#findComment-86526
Share on other sites

If you go to page 11 in the "The Sky Is The Limit" pdf file floating around the SDU forum it lists the transmission details as follows:

RE4R01A 4 speed auto

RE4R07A 4 speed auto

RE5R01A 5 speed auto

FS5R30A 5 speed manual

FS5W7 5 speed manual GTS

Apparently the "RC43" is the axle type.

Cheers,

Blake

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5611-driving-automatics/#findComment-86703
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...