Running Rich In the heat?

[Madtrang]

Hey fellars my R32 gts-t runs quite rich in the hot summers. A friend told me that standard turbo cars run rich to get the pistons to cool down (usgin petrol as the extra cooling device).

My car is running 12 pound boost with stock everything expcept for the exhaust.

She is also backfireing alot. Which is mosty likeley more un burnt petrol and Ocasional stalls , like flooding the motor.

Now what would be best way to resolve this problem.

Would a new Front Mount Intercooler do the trick , Something alot bigger than the stock intercooler so it can cool the extra air im pushing into the motor?

[fane]

fmic wont make it less rich at all, what your looking for is a safc for the cheaper option but if you have ideas for you car later on then look at a pfc or another ecu....

safc is great for fixing your afrs for everytime you get a mod and has been fine for me for ages until i got my hi-flow turbo

[Madtrang]

Would a simple remap of the stock ECU be sufficient.

How hard is it to patch in the safc.

Also how much can u get an safc for?

Im not realy looking to modify my car to much. I realy dont want to spend that much money on a car.. yet :-)

Are safc hard to use?

[fane]

safc is easy to use but you need something to monitor your afrs to tune it, so you need to get on a dyno or something like that.

price is about ~350 second hand prolly less i suppose and nengun has them new for for 410 plus shipping....

easy to put in your car....all the instructions are there and all the bits....i put mine in, in about 30 mins...

i suggest a safc if you dont plan on doing huge things to your car....you can get a fmic later and a dump pipe and you will have a resonably fast car, especially for price of mods.

ps. remap of ecu will work, but it will probably cost you just as much and you wont have a nice thing in your cabin to look at and a a monitor to look at your knock sensor and other cool features like that. Plus once you have got the safc and then your get a mod (eg. fmic) then you can just tune your safc easy, rather than having to get another remap.

[Madtrang]

Hmm. I think safc is the way to go.

Got a few extra bits l8r on I'd like to add.

is AFRs short for Air Flow Ratios by anychane?

[LANFOH]

Have you got an atmospheric BOV? If so these tend to trick the standard air flow metre hence the car runs rich, back fires and stalls. :headspin: :headspin: :headspin:

[Madtrang]

Nope stock BOV. (Recirclation valve I think they call it in the manual)

[Sime]

Check out the classifieds. There's a guy selling an SAFC2 for $400 in Gold Coast. SAFC2 was the best money I've spent on the car.

[Madtrang]

Sime how much did u pay for your SAFC?

I had a quick browse on ebay, Might have a look @ the classifieds. Thanx.

[Sime]

Sime how much did u pay for your SAFC?

I had a quick browse on ebay, Might have a look @ the classifieds.  Thanx.

I paid $420 for mine about 6 months ago. I bought it off a guy here in Melbourne who claimed to have bought it then decided on a PFC. It had never been used so it was a pretty sweet deal compared to buying from a shop here.

[fane]

i paid 460 a little while ago but mine is a d1 edition, looks a bit different but does the same thing.....only 1000 in the world....

safc2 is deffinately an awesome upgrade when doing bolt on mods to your car like fmic and exhaust and stuff like that....

AFRs stand for Air Fuel Ratios

safc2 also has and air correction bit in it that stops the car running out of air whichs causes the pop and stall symptoms....like others said, its usually caused by a/m bov's venting to atmo...

i just sold my safc2 for 390....im upgrading to pfc because of hi-flow turbo...i need ignition timing... but other than that safc is definately best upgrade i got...because it makes you use all the upgraded boost and fmic and exhaust to its best efficiency....prolly gain some fuel economy aswell as definately getting some power....

[turbocharging6]

get an SAFC II or a microtech ltx8

my recommendation

[Madtrang]

I like the look of the SAFC II

is there any advantages the microtech Itx8 has over the SAFC II?

What's price like on the Itx8?

What's the best way to tune your SAFC aswell is it a must to have it done on a dyno?

How do you initialy set it up. Is there like default maps already on ther?

Does read stock maps and then lets u change them on the SAFC?

I probably wont make a move on this till after christmas, but I'd like to know what i'm in for and what I need to do.

[fane]

mircotech is a whole ecu and its not plug and play so you have to wire it in.... its a big job and worth quite a bit in labour....aswell as initial price....turbocharging6 is just saying that he would prefer it over the pfc i believe....

safc only changes stock map by correction....so if there is no correction to stock map there is no change... so thats easy....and you need to tune it with something that monitors afrs....like a dyno or the thing that hangs off your exhaust....

[Madtrang]

Ok fane.

Thanx again.

So basicaly when u first hook an SAFC it will not do anything until u make a modification / correction to the actual map.

Hmmm, I think the SAFC is the option for me. So when i get it is probably best to book it in on a dyno for a tuning.

[fane]

yep...safc is a good mod as you just need to tune it when you get a big mod...like and exhaust or more boost or something along those lines....its good for getting your car close to 12s fairly cheaply....

ps. 12s is for my 33, close to them anyway

[Cubes]

A few things I used to install the SAFC.

Stanley Knife

25w Soldering Iron

Low melting point solder

Flux Pen (Makes solder stick to wires easily)

Liquid insulating tape (So easy and tidy)

The AFM wire; I used connectors male & female so I could connect it all back up easy for when I remove the SAFC.

The rest of the wires you simply run the stanley knife around the wire to cut the plastic around 5mm apart. Run the stanley knife along the wire between the two cuts and peel off the insulating plastic.

Twine the SAFC wire around the ecu wire.

Hit it with some flux & melt some solder on the soldering iron and dab it on the wire.

It will stick easily.

Smooth it out a little & apply a couple coats of the insulating liquid gear.

I'm generally not the best with soldering irons but found it rather easy.

Took me around 1.5hrs.

Buy a second hand SAFC and sell it when your finished. They hold their value fairly well.