Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok...i dont know much about mods just yet,.i have had my line for about 4 months now and am loving every bit of it..i am now onto modding my car.

i have done my research before posting this up,.and had no luck.

my question is.

What does Z32 AFM really do ? i mean,..what are they ? is it really neccessary to upgrade your normal R33 AFM to a Z32 AFM ?

and lets say i am aiming for 250rwkw,.do i need to change to Z32 ? any power gains from it ?

thanks for the help guys...appreciate it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56659-z32-afm-questionspls-help/
Share on other sites

im not exacly sure at what rwkw level the rb25 AFM runs out, but mine is pretty close now and im on 180rwkw

If you max out the rb25 AFM you wont make any power past that, so you need a larger AFM such as the Z32

You shouldnt really need one unless your changing turbo

i dont know how to word it properley coz its only what i was told but it has somethin to do with the voltage the z32's read or something, which allows the ecu to read that there is a change in air goin in to, sorry if u still dont understand, im in the same league just "tryin" to explain what i was told...

if anyone else could give a more detailed explanation than me lol it would help

cheerss...ben.

I did my search once again finding what Z32 does..but no luck...i have read a few threads of people having this AFM on their car which mostly has changed their turbo setup.

is it really neccessary to upgrade even if you're using aftermarket ECU like the FC ?

i dont wanna be one of those who put stuff in their engine and don't know what it does.

so anyone knows ?

i could be completely wrong here, but my understanding is the Z32 AFM allows a wider and of air flow to be measured, say for example sake, the r33 AFM reads 1V when 1 cfm/s of air is flowing thru and 5V when 5 cfm/s of air is flowing thru, then the z32 AFM may read 1V when 2 cfm/s of air isflwoing thru and 5V when 10 cfm/s of air is flowing thru

this could be completely wrong and the numbers aren't real just for exmples sake, but thats my understanding of it, this means to ur case

that the ecu can see the extra air coming thru and compensate for it, because when u max out an AFM the ecu won't add any more fuel, or will it ???

If you max out the rb25 AFM you wont make any power past that, so you need a larger AFM such as the Z32

Not larger, just greater resolution.

Only required for big power when you max out your AFM and your EFI system can no longer accurately tell how much air is entering the motor.

Not really to do with power, rather A/F ratio

Not larger, just greater resolution.

Only required for big power when you max out your AFM and your EFI system can no longer accurately tell how much air is entering the motor.

Not really to do with power, rather A/F ratio

yes thats what i meant, i didnt mean bigger as in size

And most of whats said is correct, the Z32 has a larger scale of tuning so to speak

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you have a RB25DET NEO AWD motor, you will need this: https://www.hioctanedirect.com/ASR-RB26-RWD-Street-Comp-6.5L-Sump-Suit-R32/33/34-and-VL It is made for the AWD motor, but makes it fit a RWD setup and gives you a new pickup. Just one thing, the pickup sits quite forward, compared to a conventional RB25DET RWD motor. This may or may not have contributed to my previous AWD -> RWD shitting the bed at the track.
    • My car is also flex tuned. It's worth mentioning it (the LS1 ECU) has a 1D table for E85 addition and just uses the ethanol stoich part as the second point of reference. It also as a 3D timing map for Ethanol adjustment. You would think this isn't enough but it works pretty damn well. That said, I wouldn't want it in turbo application. It's like lifting non-natty, or taking meth. It gets you unrealistic results that break down more things going forward. If people used it to make the same amount of power they do on 98 then it'd be one thing. But people use it, crank it up to eleventy million PSI, it doesn't knock - but it pushes the point of failure to another, more expensive thing to break. Every time I see someone make 280kw on 98 and 350kw on E85 on the same equipment I just cry a bit and really wish they would just stay on 98 in that exact scenario. It's bad for you. 
    • This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely.  @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.
    • It's a valid point. And it is doable with the Nistune. But I'm not inclined to flex it the way Nistune does - certainly not on a Neo ECU. They're already pernickety enough to tune just one one fuel. And of course, I'm not that interested in putting in a Link or similar, on a daily. With the stock ECU, stock looking turbo, etc etc, I still stand a chance of surviving a run-in with the plod. Last time it went over the pits (which was for the transplant, for because of a run-in with the plod), the Nistuned ECU did not even raise an eyebrow. They want to see a stock ECU running the engine, and they are happy to see it do so without the check engine light** on. Never mind that the Nistune is necessary to make the stock ECU work in a different chassis without ABS, TCS, etc. **And they actually provoke the CEL to come on by disconnecting the AFM, to prove that the globe hasn't been pulled!
    • This is why you flex fuel it...
×
×
  • Create New...