Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

jimi: easy man, we can do it one afternoon. just need a couple of cans of WD40, those manifold bolts are bitches to get off!!

joe: hard, you need new manifold, turbo, intake piping, will kill your gearbox and clutch after a while cos of extra power. just buy a turbo'ed car

:uh-huh:

I am also very interested in seeing if oil feeds and other anciliaries bolt back on without a hassle. So basically on an RB20 all you have to do is buy new gaskets and rotate the housing? Sounds too simple to be true. I have access to a VG30 item and I'm very interested to hear the how to and any problems anyone has encountered, before I roll my wallet out and my sleeves up.

Waiting patiently

Rhys

p.s also safe boost level on VG30 snail with stock R32 apart from cat-back and bleed valve. thanks :D

thats the other thing i was gunah say jimi

theres a few things u might wonah do before bolting on the turbo... a good pod filter/panel filter, boost guage, possibly intercooler. id say get a boost guage, pod filter, boost the std turbo then wait til uve got a FMIC and fuel pump to take full advantage of the VG30...

heheh mmmm looks like I'm gonna need to do some things before leaping into this hehehe

well I was gonna fit the bleed valve and boost guage after exams and then hopefully find a FMIC somewhere too.

guess I'll just wait a little while for this turbo.

Originally posted by Pva_Glue

Same goes to putting turbo on RB25DE! How hard is it?

chees

Joe

R U serious Joe?

RB25DE and DET arent the same engine really as such..

The DET has stronger internals and lower compresion, totally different exhaust manifold setup to just name a few...

It would be easier to sell yours and buy a turbo like you should ov done to start with rice boy!

JimiH as in turbo upgrades the T3 vg30 is not a hard upgrade compared to alot of others, altho u have to check oil and water lines match up and dump pipe is the same bolt pattern as the guys have already mentioned..

T3 wheels are a fair bit bigger than the standard T25 ;) ya cant go wrong!

And that comes from the LagMasterAdam32

2 choices that u can do.

Hi flow your existing turbo and no other mods

or Buy a T3 and rebuild it then posible mounting issues because T3s come from VL Turbos and 300zxs or the like.

The T25 has to go ;)

You can run a modified turbo with no other mods such as FMIC and Retuned fuel curve but u wont get much benifit until these are both done + u will be running minimal boos without a fmic if u whacked on da turb first!

Cheers

Joe

I mean Mac

Originally posted by adam 32

well it depends on how much power you want to make and how much lag you want to deal with!  

the VG30 should make 280-300rwhp. is that enough for u?

300rwhp is is really maxing the VG30 out!!

Go for sumthing bigger where u wont have to have it runnin at its peak.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...