Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

jimi: easy man, we can do it one afternoon. just need a couple of cans of WD40, those manifold bolts are bitches to get off!!

joe: hard, you need new manifold, turbo, intake piping, will kill your gearbox and clutch after a while cos of extra power. just buy a turbo'ed car

:uh-huh:

I am also very interested in seeing if oil feeds and other anciliaries bolt back on without a hassle. So basically on an RB20 all you have to do is buy new gaskets and rotate the housing? Sounds too simple to be true. I have access to a VG30 item and I'm very interested to hear the how to and any problems anyone has encountered, before I roll my wallet out and my sleeves up.

Waiting patiently

Rhys

p.s also safe boost level on VG30 snail with stock R32 apart from cat-back and bleed valve. thanks :D

thats the other thing i was gunah say jimi

theres a few things u might wonah do before bolting on the turbo... a good pod filter/panel filter, boost guage, possibly intercooler. id say get a boost guage, pod filter, boost the std turbo then wait til uve got a FMIC and fuel pump to take full advantage of the VG30...

heheh mmmm looks like I'm gonna need to do some things before leaping into this hehehe

well I was gonna fit the bleed valve and boost guage after exams and then hopefully find a FMIC somewhere too.

guess I'll just wait a little while for this turbo.

Originally posted by Pva_Glue

Same goes to putting turbo on RB25DE! How hard is it?

chees

Joe

R U serious Joe?

RB25DE and DET arent the same engine really as such..

The DET has stronger internals and lower compresion, totally different exhaust manifold setup to just name a few...

It would be easier to sell yours and buy a turbo like you should ov done to start with rice boy!

JimiH as in turbo upgrades the T3 vg30 is not a hard upgrade compared to alot of others, altho u have to check oil and water lines match up and dump pipe is the same bolt pattern as the guys have already mentioned..

T3 wheels are a fair bit bigger than the standard T25 ;) ya cant go wrong!

And that comes from the LagMasterAdam32

2 choices that u can do.

Hi flow your existing turbo and no other mods

or Buy a T3 and rebuild it then posible mounting issues because T3s come from VL Turbos and 300zxs or the like.

The T25 has to go ;)

You can run a modified turbo with no other mods such as FMIC and Retuned fuel curve but u wont get much benifit until these are both done + u will be running minimal boos without a fmic if u whacked on da turb first!

Cheers

Joe

I mean Mac

Originally posted by adam 32

well it depends on how much power you want to make and how much lag you want to deal with!  

the VG30 should make 280-300rwhp. is that enough for u?

300rwhp is is really maxing the VG30 out!!

Go for sumthing bigger where u wont have to have it runnin at its peak.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...